I've had my 2002 TT 225 since new. Car currently has 78k miles. I have not yet replaced the Timing belt/Water pump/etc (f.y.i in case this might be the issue). Other than the coolant flange bursting about 1000 miles ago, I haven't had any major issues with it.

Four days ago I installed a Forge 007P D/V as I intend to chip the car in the next two weeks. Today, I installed a Neuspeed P-flo intake. After putting 15 miles on the car with the new intake, I noticed that it would begin to overheat while idling with the A/C turned on. It was 75 degrees outside. I returned home and re-installed the stock airbox but I am still having this issue with it overheating while idling with the A/C turned on. It will overheat to one bar before max overheating on the temp guage.

I had had a similar issue with it overheating while in bumper to bumper traffic once or twice, but that was when it was 110 degrees outside, idling, with A/C on. But again, that was only like once or twice.

Here are my questions: 1.) could I have messed something up when I installed the Neuspeed intake that would cause this, 2.) if no to 1, could the Forge D/V be the cause for this issue, or 3.) if no to 2, could having the Forge D/V installed void any warranty (I currently have an aftermarket Audi warranty on the car).

Thank you for your help,

Chris

 

The intake has nothing to do with it. Just reinstall the nuespeed.
Same with the dv.
a better than stock dv will not void the warrenty.

Its most likely the coolent temp sensor (cts) or a the plastic waterpump taking a dump. Get the TB changed now and make sure you get a metal impeller pump and you should be good. The cts is about $25 and takes 2mins to install also.

 

I had this same issue plaguing my car forever.
Mine was so bad that there were times when it would run all the way to the last line on the gauge in bumper to bumper traffic and then the A/C would kick off and start blowing hot air until it cooled down again.

My car does not do this anymore though. I had my timing belt changed (the water pump impellar wasn't even broken) and I had the coolant flushed and reserviced and the problem went away completely. Im not sure if the fix was flushing and reservicing with new coolant... or the timing belt and water pump change. Regardless.. if you haven't changed out the timing belt/water pump, you need to. If you're tight on cash... try getting the coolant flushed and reserviced (you'll be amazed at how much difference it will make. Although it's lifetime coolant, after a long time it can lose its pinash. lol)

I used to HATE that problem though. Mine was horrible. I could start my car and run it hard for FIVE minutes and then it would start to overheat if I idled it.

 

I replaced the CTS and the car is still overheatin while idling with the A/C on. I guess I'll have to take it in and have the garage look at it. Thanks for all your help.

 

open the hood and make sure the large radiator fan is running. Its on the drivers side of the car. this should run when the car temp is above 95 celcius.

If its not (like mine right now isnt) then it could be the thermo switch, fan control module, or fan itself.

I have a new control module ready to be installed, I just need a writeup and a free 2hrs to do it. Maybe today when I get home but probably not though.

I'll let you know how it goes.

 

I took the car into the shop today and they think it is either the thermostat or the water pump but they won't know until the morning. Either way, I think my aftermarket warranty should cover both items. But, seen as how the warranty will pay for the water pump and the labor to acess that region of the engine, I told the mechanic that I would probably be interested in replacing the TB and the tensioners. What else would normally be replaced in that region at 80k?

I'd like to get as much taken care of while I don't have to pay for ALL the labor.

Thanks,

Chris

 

I had my tb changed and it still does it on mine, but my temp gauge is never quite on anyway. Every mechanic has told me its a cluster issue, any ideas? I pull the temp from Channel 51 on the hvac unit and it always says I am normal?

 

Have the shop take the head off and measure it, you may have warped the head, even slightly, if you let the car overheat past a tick mark over...

 

No I am not leaking anything and the HVAC system is pretty accurate in temp. If the head was warped it would cause you a tone more problems than that.

 

So I said before too. I wasn't leaking anything, timing belt and water pump were good, coolant system all replaced, still overheated. It was a warped head, no blown headgasket or any thing. And it was ever-so-slightly warped too.

It's easy to do the damage, if the engine has overheated past that 1 above mark, be careful!