I haven't been active in the forum in a while because of how completely frustrated I am. I went to the dealership after the guy who replaced my cam/crank seals, timing belt, and serpentine belt said he tested my MAF and it was bad. I had just boughtthe MAFand was suspect to believe there was a problem. After installing a new one my car would still choke out with the MAF connected.

SinceI was at Audi I talked to the shop guy toget thereopinion. The list of codes was amazing.It was like everyone from P1111-P1117 (I don't have the paperwork in front of me to be exact). The car was running rich and the sensor in Bank 1 seeme to have a reoccuring theme to the problem, it may have been error code P1113. Long and shortthe shop guy said Audirecommended replacing the ECM which I after Iasked found out wasa different name forthe ECU. He alsosaid that there aFederal Mandate the required manufacturers to warranty the ECU for 8 years/85,000 miles. After calling backI realized that although it was a priority to me Audi could care less about following through onthe warrantee because of the APR 93 flash I have.

The part was quoted at just over $1000 dollars without maintenance. I asked if they could just re-flash theECU and the guy kept telling me the ECM was damaged and they would replace it. This is my first turbo car. My first carI have modded. I know nothing aboutECU's or flashes but do know about computers. If I had a problem with my home computer I would format it and start over. Does the same principle apply to a cars computer?

Can anyone help me with how it works? I know in the pastI havebeen vague cause I didn't have codes or an accurate description of what was going on. I believe this time I have explained myself well. Couldone of you technical guys spare some knowledge/opinion on a noob?

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

How long have you been apr'd?
Did the problem start near the time you got your apr flash?

If you think it might betheir fault you might wanna ask them what they can do for you.

If not, you might wanna ask them anyway. I hear alot of good things about their customer service, and they might be willing to lend a helping hand.

 

^ well since you're a computer buff, then you would know that the ECU is flashable memory and not stored nor backed up.

for example -if you're going to flash your BIOS and it *** up, you would a.) reset the CMOS and pray there's a back up BIOS

and since i dont think the audi's circuit board has CMOS jumpers, unfortunately it would b.) replace the BIOS chip + motherboard. once you fukkup the flash, the BIOS becomes corrupt and non-existant so therefore there are no input/output instructions.

hopefully that computer metaphor can relate to your car dilemma. but re-flashing COULD work, that is, if your ECU isn't corrupt.

 

Honestly, if if you have a problem with your ecu/ecm (modual/unit), you can buy a new one for $350 blank and usually $700 with a chip installed. Find out what you ecu's # code is and you may be able to find one for sale on vortex. I think a few places can get you a new ecu if you need one and you can install it yourself with a diy the apr has on their website to remove it.

 

I wrote the goapr.com website an email and got no response. I chipped the car the week after I bought it soI don't have any prior experience to gauge it against

 

I have the paperwork in hand now.

What I said about pulling all those codes came from the shop managers mouth. It is not reflected in this print out. I was getting a P0102 Mass Air Flow Cir. Low Input Sporadic. They replaced a damaged connector and MVB 211 found correct value. The other code was P1113 Bank 1 Sensor 1 Internal Resistance Too Large Sporadic. They found no obstructions or vacuum leaks. They tested the Bank 1 02 Sensor and it checked OK. There conclusion was that the vehicle needs OEM ECM for further diagnosis. Vehicle still stalls under load.

 

I got my ECU part# from Audi. It is 8N0997018LX. Cincy can you point me in the right direction on the blank ECU?

My question is (and it is the million dollar question) why do they suggest to replace the ECU and not the sensor in Bank1 Slot 1. I dont understand the trouble shooting process and the order in which they would approach it. Next is the sensor in Bank 1 Slot 1 the one next to the SMIC (I have a 180QC). When I took the front off the car off to install a new grill I'm pretty sure I was looking at that sensor.

 

Im not 100% sure of to many places to buy one but im sure that Arnold at pagparts can get you one and if you call a shop that will chip you, they should be able to get you one also.