Hey guys,


This weekend I took my car to a regular shop (Not an Audi dealer) to have my brake pad changed and my rotors cut. - The pads I bought are brand new, bought them at Autozone. - They are the top of the line pads that are supposed to exceed Audi's OEM brakes.

Anyways, the shop cut the rotors and put the brakes on, however my car stops like complete ****. - It appears that the brakes have NOT been bled correctly. -

The shop was bleeding the brakes while I was there, just as I would have if I were working on the brakes at home.

The dealership states they will bleed the brakes for $85. (Complete flush) - They have what is called a " powerbleeder "


My question to all of you is : what did you do when you changed your brakes? - Anything special need to be done? - Right now my brakes are horrible! - I can stop, but it stops like my old ford tarus in high school, I have to push REALLY hard to the floor to get it to stop hard, and even then it's still very soft. - When normally this car stop's on a dime.

Thanks fore the help guys

 

I wasn't aware that you could get your rotors cut on a TT. Thought they had to be a certain thickness...
Anyway, I didn't bleed my breaks at all when I changed them.
I just pumped the pedal until the piston extracted. Once the pedal felt firm, then I drove off and broke them in.
I'm wondering if they pushed the rear pistons too far in... Good Luck!

 

Your not supposed to cut the rotors? wft - cant or shouldn't?

Example, on my 7 series I was told your not supposed to CUT the rotors, but I did and there was never an issue. - Is this true for the TT? - This means I might be upgrading my rotors... JOY!

 

I'm not certain... Sorry!
But you can get them pretty cheap here if need be.
Honestly, I'd get them bleed properly first and see if that fixes it.
Do you have any friends that are mechanically inclined? Have them help you, and avoid the dealer prices!

 

I was told by the dealer you need a powerbleeder.

which I'm not quite sure what that is.

 

You would need a powerbleeder if you were to do the job by yourself.
*shakes head* friggin' stealers!

 

I did mine with a hand pump power bleeder.
I don't remember what it cost me as I've had it for years but I'm sure it was fairly cheap.
I think I also read somewhere that you need to have the rear suspention weighted because of some valve.
So I had jack stands under the rear A arms when I did mine and they work fine.

Also, the disks can be turned down if they are not worn too thin.
Of course I had to replace my front ones but the rears were good.
I would have turned the fronts but the local guys wouldn't touch em.
I figure if they ain't warped they're still good.
With all the work I had to do to my brakes I suspect my car has more than the 60K miles indicated.

Al

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/B...017708/c-10101

 

Would most of you agree then, that a power bleeder will fix my issue based on what has been said?


Thanks guys!

 

You just need someone to pump the peddle for you or get a bleeder (clear hose and bucket) with a magnet to stick on the fender above the bleed screw and do it yourself. They cost like $5 and you will be done in about 10mins. Remember start furthest from the resiviour. Really not that hard, i did mine myself.