I was looking around for vacuum leaks today & found a braided line that looked pretty dry and crappy....so I set out to replace it.
I had no trouble with the end that looked crappy...it was loose anyway. But when I went to take the other end off (which attaches to a device that has an electrical plug attached to it) I managed to snap the nipple off inside the piece.
I dont know what this thing does....or what it is called but I will need a replacement ASAP.
So, I will try to explain where it is & maybe someone knows what the thing does.
The small thing is attached under the plate that bolts to the side of the intake & holds the dip stick also. It was held on the plate with 2 phillips screws & has a vacuum inlet and then the braided line that ran up to something which I assume controlls boost or fuel pressure.?.
The small unit has a PA66 on the electrical plug end and 00T278 & 037 906 283 8 & 7.22393.00 APG on the side of the unit....made by pierburg PA6-6F30<1 on the other side.
So....anyone have a guess what this thing is or what it is called?
Please help...so I can drive this thing again.
Thank you,
Eric

 

N112 Secondary Air valve?

Where do the other lines come from that attach to that valve?

 

The other line runs up to the top of the valve cover where a bunch of vacuum lines attach to a vacuum box etc.
Thank you
Eric

 

I am going to assume the line you are talking about would be in the n249 area.
Try using the pics and describe again if possible.





[IMG][/IMG]

 

That is the valve I am talking about....under the plate.
I snapped off the hose barb that faces down.
How important is this valve?
Can I cap off the vacuum line or run it directly to the other end & still drive my ride until I get a new valve?
What does the vacuum line feed air to on the other end?

Thanks so much,
Eric

 

can you physically see the part that snapped off in the pics above? it's really hard to know exactly where you are talking about. most likely you would be fine to cap it off for a short period of time but is really har to say. either take a picture or use one of the pics above and circle where the issue is...or read this. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3111538 and go from there...that stuff is safe to do

 

The electrical plug you see in the last picture connects to the solenoid I am speaking of and the vacuum line you see bending up towards it is the one that connects to the barb I broke off of mine.
If the other end connects to the diverter valve then could I run it directly and bypass this thing alltogether or at least temporary?
What do you think?
Thanks,
Eric

 

No....not the diverter valve. It connects to another vacuum powered canister that bolts down with 2 bolts to a metal hose which goes down to the back side of the motor. EGR possibly?
Does anyone have a vacuum schematic for my ride?

Thanks,
Eric

 

They control the dv. Just find the vac nipple under the manifold and remove it. Then you can just take another vac line from that nipple and run it to the dv and install a Tee in it and run it to the combi/egr valve on the drvers side of the head along the way. This will also let you remove the vac canister on the valve cover also.

 

I removed the vac line from intake nipple & ran a new line up & teed it to suck both the dv and the combi valve. I ran the codes & now I have 2 more.
Now I get P1432 (air vlv open) & P1287 (bypass vlv open)
Do I need to keep the solonoids plugged in to keep from getting codes?

Not sure but feels like one step forward 2 steps back.

I put a vacuum gauge on inline to see what I am getting and found that I have just below 20" of vacuum. Seems to be very steady on the gauge also.
What should I be getting on the gauge?

Thanks,
Eric
p.s. I also broke the oil dipstick in the process & due to my white trash upbringing I was able to fix it with a 3" piece of copper tube that was just the right size to couple the 2 pieces & still let the dipstick go by once I fine tuned the orange plastic guides on the side!
LOL!