it is wierd how when you hear the pop sound the boost gauge shows your getting vaccum then it almost gonna stalls. have you check all the lines near the DV and MAF? even those check valves(black and grey) can go bad and cause boost/vac issues.....

 

So another follow up - I got my Starter kit today from Hosetechniques - I replaced the FPR hose and the Combi Valve hose. Both were weather checked pretty badly - Replaced them and made sure no kinks were present. Looked around for any other bad looking hoses - those were the only 2 I could stumble across. Started the car and it did the pop sound. How many Check Valves should I order and PVC valves. I noticed my car still has the black soot all over the *** end again - and I beleive I found the PVC valve location too. Followed a hose under the Intake on the passenger side over to the driver side. One side has a Crimp Clamp while the other is a Worm Clamp - Does that house the PVC valve?

Also i'm hearing that this part on ECStuning.com - ES#3682 - Could potentially be a culprit?

 

just do a complete pcv delete....i'll post a link when i get home...or just search on vwvortex for SAI and EGR savwkos thread should pop up....the stock pcv valve and system is worthless...junk junk and more junk. its a very easy process and since you have to remove the intake manifold anyway to replace it...might as well get rid of it. plus you can install the powergasket by new south beach and gain a few hp...

 

ehh as much as id Like to do that - im a tad Low on cash atm lol...Id rather solve this cold start problem by fixing/patching w/e is wrong. Over the winter when I store the car ill do some nice stuff to it...

Auditech - I dont think the injectors are leaking into the cylinders - It's really hard to tell what's going on. It dropped down to 40 tonight and I was convinced this time it was gonna quit on me. Starts up/turns over just fine - Catches, -15inHG boost gauge reads then stutters down to zereo (Like in the video) then hangs at zero for a second or two. I could feel the car shake like it had a cam in it, POP turbo spools up idles ok....
Doesnt smell rich out the exhaust at all...In the picture that cincy posted - To the NE Of the anodized blue item - I noticed that part (I think) plugs into turbos wastegate? What does that item do?

Ill head back to my mechanic tomorrow and check the o2 sensor as well...It's weird since after the pop occurs - I can hear the suction Start after that (almost like a mini 2 step) Seems like my Turbo needs a helping hand on cold days....

 

its called a valve cover breather and not expensive and replaces the oil fouling pcv

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...3D10%26hl%3Den

 

So now it's escalated into starting the car and having to rev it up and hold the gas for a second to let it do whatever...I posted this same problem on VWVortex and im gonna build the can pressurizer tester and give it a whirl this weekend. I really hope it Is just a leak causing all of this.

Was 55*F Tonight - Cold start - turned over fine...ran for ~1-2 sec boost to Zero then stalled. As soon as I started it the 2nd time though - I revved it right upto 5k (Just to test something) and let the diverter valve let off a hefty whoosh and boom -20inhg Vacuum - perfect idle. Some days I wish all cars were Carbed.

On cold starts for you guys - what does your boost gauge show from the Second the cars on to 1 minute after? Mines shakey at 15...then drop to zero..then kicks back to ~11-15inHG then after driving it for a few minutes it goes to -20inHG. -25inHG Decel.

Forgot to add - I've went through and replaced damn near all of the vacuum lines w/ the HoseTech kit...Hopefully the pressure test will show me a Bad hose - I really hope it's not a fuel pump starting to go.

 

So - replaced every vacuum hose, smoke tested the whole system, changed all the check valves, realigned the TB, changed the fuel filter, new plugs and coils, checked the wiring harness, and replaced the valve closest to the DV (Believe it's called the cut off valve) aaand im still getting the cold start problem.

Checked the ribbed plastic lines and they're all intact. What in the world could be left to check/replace? It sounds like the secondary pump is firing up on start ups, exhaust still has a mild funny smell to it (Ill check the cat) Both o2 sensors are new. *shrug* are the N75 Valves known to go bad? If so how can you test it?

 

You might wanna try the CTS sensor, its a common problem for cold/warm starts on almost all other audi's, not so much the TT but it can still happen. When it goes it usually doesn't throw a CEL and can cause all sorts of problems, including static miss-fires.
You can identify it malfunctioning with either the VAG COM or VAS scan tool by monitoring data block 3 i believe, if it drops to like -40 or something crazy like that while you are driving its faulty.
What color is you CTS sensor? If its black change it without any questions, if a different color monitor it like i just said.

 

I replaced the CTS about ~400 miles ago actually from ECS Tuning. If I Remember right it was the Blue Sensor my car had. They're cheap enough to where ill have the mechanic get me a new one.

 

Ok see what that does. If your still having problems check data block 32 and post back what the fuel trims are, i want to know exactly what your engine is reading.