Alright, I ran the car with the A/C diagnostic temp thing set on Code 49. At 107 Deg celcius, the second fan was still not on. this leads me to believe that I have a bad fan or switch that is causing my temp issue. anyone know the size of the Stock Fans in an 01' 225 TTQC?

Second...
How do you remove that entire trunk floor on the TT coupe? I have no backseats at all and I need to completely pull out the whole floor in the trunk area because im rebuilding the entire rear interior and replacing it with a false floor (with compartments). Does anyone have any idea where the mounting hardware for this floor piece is?

**Edit**
Oh btw... enroute to my house via Mail is:
[ul][*]ECS Ultimate Timing Belt kit w/ lightweight crank pulley (I run a lot of audio so no underdrive)[*]Denso Plugs (1 deg cooler)[*]4 Bar FPR[*]Vag-Com Cable[*]Snow Performance Dual Nozzle Stage 2 W/M Injection Kit with Solenoid Upgrade.[*]Full set of Silver vac Hoses (All platinum Silicone; 3.5mm, 6.0mm, and 8.0mm)[/ul]
I know none of you care... lol just an FYI.
I'm so psyched.

 

+Bump

 

Does that 2nd fan turn on with the AC running?

If not I'm guessing the fan is fouled. I'm willing to bet they are pretty easy to replace.

 

Yea... it looks like it wouldn't be too hard. It's pretty well open in there. Nope, it doesn't turn on with A/C. It got up to 109 Deg C when I was checking it. If you're looking from the front with the hood open... the one on the left is running, but the one on the right (drivers side) is not. Probably a bad fan. -shrugs-

They sell them @ ECS. Just need to know which of the two they sell is the right size

 

Somebody.... Anybody...
I know SOMEONE has a bentley manual that knows what holds that floor down.

Can one of the techs help me out here? I just need to know where the hardware is located that secures that trunk floor to the car is...


... help

 

removing the trunk floor? its part of the chassis and not removable I have every other diagram but that's not on the list

 

what if the upholstery is damaged and needs to be replaced though? You hav to replace the vehicle's frame? [sm=boosign.gif]

 

best i can do

 

wow... thats actually a really good start. Thanks Nate.
It doesn't show what holds it down... but it gives me a good idea of how to get enough paneling off so that I can see what holds it down.

I rarely talk abou it in here because of it's taboo nature, but I'm more into Audio than performance. (Not like huge subwoofers and all that). right now I have a SQ setup that has a running total ofwell over$10,000 so far. For a while, I did have subwoofers in my car... but to be honest, they were overkill and subwoofers take up entirely too much space. However, I did stumble across some midrange drivers that were originally intended for the rear speaker positions (didn't fit because they were too deep. touched the panel AND they touched the frame in the back... so i couldnt move them in either direction). Well for a temp fix... i put the original focal utopias back in the rear positions and made an itty bitty box for these mids (to gain minor bass fill). To my astonishment, these two 6½" mid-bass drivers in a sealed box... produced more bass than my best friend's single JL Audio 10w7 10" subwoofer. to this day I can sit people in my car and turn the bass up a little bit and they just do NOT believe i dont have a subwoofer hidden somewhere. lol
anyhow, after that I decided my setup did not need a subwoofer. Like I stated before, this is a purely SQ setup; sound processors, very very high end amplifiers. (almost nothing in this setup is anything you will ever find at an audio store anywhere. Very few anyhow) the secondary up side to this... I get bass fill without needing a huge subwoofer and enclosure taking up the car.

I've already deleted the rear seat and fabricated a false floor there where the amplifiers are mounted now. (also temporary). Now what I am trying to do is pull out the trunk floor completely (its pretty dingey and dirty anyhow from carrying around military gear) and I'm building a whole new floor from the trunk forward to match identically with the original upholstery and interior. In addition, I do not want any of these components in view... so I am building it with a 3"-4" deep compartment to mount all distrobution blocks, HU receivers, processors, amplifiers, capacitor, crossover, etc that will have a solid cover panel that seats down over it all to conceal it out of the way. If all goes well, the enclosure for the midrange drivers will be integrated into this floor and they will be flush with it also.

When all is said and done... I will just have visible a smooth... flat... solid... stock like floor that goes from behind the front seats to the rear wall (including spare tire door). This will afford me the luxury of the esoteric sound Im looking for... without any aftermarket components being visible at all (mids will be seen but flush in the floor).

Like I said before, this is NOT everyone's cup of tea. However, before you start... let me say this: I do not care if this depreciates the resale value of the car as I do not plan on selling it. I do not buy cars in hopes that I can resell them later. If I decide to get another car, I get another car. I keep my current, and get another. I've never sold a car. I have a few, all in great condition. (keep in mind that just about ANY mod will depreciate the vehicle's value). Additionally, this is not some blow out your eardrums loud "system". This is audio performance. Please do not confuse this with joe schmuck down your street with some infinity door speakers, and some rockford fosgate or kicker 2,000 watt subwoofers blasting his sloppy, poorly configured music "slop" that was thrown together by some "professional" at his local car audio store or best buy.

decided to share this... dont know why.. but it's just another non-performance project that I've been working on for a while.

fyi.. my modlist in my signature is very wrong. Audio setup is quite different now. Ditched the subwoofers a few months back. Like I said... subwoofers are very overrated. In fact; when building an audio setup, subwoofers and the amplifier to power them should be the last priority. Head Unit, Components drivers, CLEAN amplifiers to power the components, and control software/hardware (processors, crossovers, pre-amp, graphic equalizers, line drivers)to adequately manipulate and control the signal should be first on the list. It has to sound good before you can turn the volume up. No need to go buy $2,000 worth of subwoofer and amplifier to amplify garbage to high volumes.

my $.02

 

I like it
adit: of course the actual; floor is still welded to the chassis