So after 6 years of use, my 01 tt engine mounts were pretty worn out. i have 87K on the car and i have a bunch of mods which put a lot of stress on all the drivetrain. the main one is the fact that i race it here and there and i drag raced it for a while. The engine mounts are rubber, which starts to sag just as the strut tower mounts do. the cavity inside the rubber is filled with some sort of oil. there is a way to beef up these mounts and make them solid. you have to split the mount in half and let the oil out. you have to clean everything then fill it the cavity with liquid urethane. this will solidify and create a really strong mount. onec you fill up the cavity, you can also reassembled the 2 metal mount pieces and fill the gaps with urathane. this will really stiffen it. as much as vf engineering engine mounts, if not more. you can choose the grade of urethane hardness. i chose 60A which is a little stiffer then the stock rubber, but when everything is filled in, it will be way stiffer than stock. I will do a writeup on this mod as it is about 30-70 bucks worth of material to make both mounts race status. 30 for a basic fill replacement and about 70 to fill both of the mounts whole . the urethane came from MacMaster CARR a big supply company. the cheaper version is the 3M Window Weld urethane tubes which retail for 17 but can be had for about 10-13 online. the urethane is a 60A grade and will do the same job, but figure about 4-5 tubes. either way worth it. This has been done before. ive seen totally torn mounts be fixed this way and be 100% reliable and even fix wheel hop on beefy engines.

I'll get some links for those fix it yourselfers.

 

From what you've experienced with the liquid urethane how long did it take to dry?
Oh andsome of us would like somepics when you get yours done.
some do it yourselfers like a visual aid

 

it dries where you can handle it in about 30 min, and it can be remounted in about 1.5 to 2 days. the stuff is like the fiberglass process. you mix the compound with a catalyst and then apply it before it gels up. i taped it it all up and poured it in there to coat the outside of the rubber as well. i wanted it to be stiff. while i was pouring, it gelled gooed up and that was that. i was done. the curing time is shorter if the coats applied are thinner . if you totally fill a mount up it takes that long if you the coats a re thinner, it will dry faster. I will post pics of the stuff soon.

 

what does urethane harden like? Is it like RTV or silicone sealant?
I have a plethra of epoxies, sealing compounds, and two part adhesives at my disposal. Kind of curious of the final composition and what it could be compared to. More or less to give me an idea of what I'd be looking for as a suitable replacement. In fact... I may even have that exact thing and not know it because I may know it by a different name. -shrugs-

 

it hardens to a very flexible rubber like material. much like the bushings sold by energy suspension powerflex and such. there are different hardness levels. 40A 60A 80A 90A 40-50 is like stock,60 is better, 80 is stiffer than most bushings. thing like it would be E6000 compound tubes, even liquid nails would work. if you want to use it. the easiest fix is to load up the rubber cavity that is currently filled with oil. if you fill that with a compound even liquid nails which is really rubbery, you will notice a big improvement. that is the part that sags when worn out. it would take about 1 hr to do the job and reinstallation time once it dries. liquid nails and E6000 hardness is about 85A- 90A which is stiff. but if you only fill in that part it will be perfect