Well, that's why I started off easy and worked up. Block 020 gives you the timing pull. There is a great guide some guy posted on the VAG-COM forums: TTweakers-Guide. It actually has examples of when you are too advanced. The comment is that if you are approaching 12 degrees pull, you're in danger. But the max I got was 6.3 degrees pull with 3.75 degrees advance.

I suggest you start with .75 degrees and work up from there. I have water coming on really early, sometimes around 3 psi. If I don't feel the car bogging down, I'm gonna keep it there.

 

OK, here's my 2500-6500 rpm run in 3rd gear. I lowered my water settings to come on @ 5 psi and run full @ 10 psi. I still have timing advanced 3.75 degrees and am running a 4 gph nozzle. I got 3 degrees pull in cylinder 4 near readline. Otherwise, 0 degrees pull.

 

And here is how I repositioned the nozzle. I moved it to the top of the throttle body.

 

Is it really a noticable difference with the nozzle mounted on top of the TB?

 

AHHHHHH I want my car back so i can start this process... i am going to be really really careful with it though this time... not that it messed it up last time but I would rather be safe then sorry.

Josh

 

I really can't tell and didn't take any kind of measurements before (and don't really want to switch it back), but I like posting pictures. j/k [8D]

It's just as I thought about it, the velocity of the intake air is probably greater at the point where the throttle plate starts to open than from the side where it's more diffused. I'm thinking spraying from the top will cause better dispersion of water, but I could be completely wrong. Maybe there are some fluid or aerodynamics engineers out there who can chime in, or some engineering students who need an idea for a class project.

 

Makes sense. Also no chance of water pooling around the orifice. I have a water only cutting head for the waterjet at work, blasts out a stream of water that looks like fishing line. Believe its a .004" diameter orifice, with 60,000psi of water behind it. If water splashes back at the head and drips to the orifice (lowest point) that strand of silk looks more like a piece of dental floss. Doesn't really make a difference on the jet, its still 60,000 psi, which is gonna cut regardless, but that illustrates the difference in spray pattern. A side or bottom mounted nozzle I'd assume could accumulate more water around the orifice, possibly ruining the atomizing effect.

 

UMMM..............


So I don't know if anyone else did this wrong too... BUT I figured out what cause all my problems and it WAS in fact the W/M Kit.....

Here is what happened... When i was installing the W/M kit the nozzles have that little screen thing on them... WELL I guess those are NOT supposed to be put into the air stream... SO thats right apparently I put the nozzles' in upside-down and you guessed it one came off and got sucked through the engine... THUS bending an intake valve, destroying a piston and possibly the turbo... We can't see the turbo however so don't know for sure...

SO if anyone else made the stupid mistake like me of installing the nozzle upside-down, SWITCH IT ASAP!!!!!!!!

I called Devils own and they said "Sorry... we can't do anything..." It would have been nice if they showed some instructions on how the nozzle is supposed to me mounted for people like me who have not done one of these setups before.

SO yeah... this freaking freaking freaking sucks.

Josh

 

[sm=insomnia.gif]Man-o-man! I can see how that would happen, especially if you've not done this stuff before. Since the nozzle is threaded on both ends, it can screw in either way. I want to say, "how dumb", but I really can't. What a bummer. I'm suprised that little piece did so much damage.

 

Yeah that picture you posted was posted on the Devils Own website about 20 min AFTER I called them about the problem. SO apparently they must be pretty worried about it since they posted that so fast.

Josh