i hate to admit it, but i do think im over reacting lol, its just im use to american cars that dont need tb replaced that often, and then i started reading horror stories of people having to pay thousands of dollars to get their engine fixed because of a tb break, ye i was reading up on the dsg issue, i think the belt thing is less of an issue lol, that and those models are hard to find, is $9000 a good price for an 02 audi tt quattro 225, 80k miles

 

Depends. I always look at KBB first to get a starting point based upon condition, mileage, and options. I don't consider mods....that's just me, other than giving credit for recent maintenance where appropriate. No xtra credit/value for after market versus OEM. For example, if the seller has a zillion dollar turbo back in place of the OEM exhaust, well, no xtra credit...the car is supposed to have an exhaust system. But, if it is new, then that goes towards the excellent/high book value.

Then, I look at the condition of the car in question. KBB/Edmunds/etc assume maintenance is current, so, if the car needs maintenance, then I start subtracting.

When i bought my 2001 225 w/67K miles in June of 09, seller was asking $11000. He bought it the year before for $14000 and had put roughly 12000 miles on it but no maintenance other than gas/oil. But, for personal reasons, he wanted a quick sale.

We talked about maintenance for a while. It needed TB/WP, suspension was original and there were squeaks, brakes were original, and it had a large paint scrape on rear fender (no sheet metal damage) thru the clearcoat but not thru the paint. Tires were ok, wheels had curb rash. Interior was good, not great, for being 9 years old, all electrical worked. It was the right color and he was the second owner. Clean carfax.

I estimated $3-4K would be need to take care of the 'known' issues assuming I did as much labor as possible. Obviously, with a 9 year old car there would be other problems as there always are with used cars.

I offered him $9000 and he took it. We were both happy.

good luck

 

thanks for all your help lol, about the suspension thing, should i ask this guy if he replaced it or knows if it was done, cause i read on some forums that the suspension goes on these cars, could have just been those people, you def seem to know your stuff on these cars tho, thats my last question for now lol

 

It's not so much that the suspension goes, it's just that on any care with 80K miles/approaching 10yrs, stuff wears out. So, if their still on the original suspension, I guarantee it needs suspension work: the swaybar bushings almost always need replacing by 80K miles...hell, by 50k miles. the shocks/struts are probably on their last leg as they are not meant to last forever. The strut mounts are probably shot too as are the A-arm bushings. those old rubber parts need replacing.

I'm not saying suspension repairs must be done asap, they probably don't. Unless you've got a leaking/busted strut or shock, you could probably drive it safely for quite a while. But, you're not going to like it. Old cars that ride/drive/steer like old cars are never fun.

good luck

 

I just did mine this weekend. First time used a Tutorial -
Cam / Timing Belt replacement album | Blue TTop | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

This made it very easy. This is a 1500.00 deal at Dealer not 3000.00.
I did it for 400.00 myself. That and adding a lightened Crank pulley with the Kit I got from ECS Tuning.

* All my stock parts were in good shape. The water pump plastic impeller looked new and no slack in the pump bearings. The Belt looked fine but felt hard or not as flexible as the new (typical). The Tensioner was fine too. It has 61000 on the car. I ran it pretty hard several times too prior to changing it since I bought at 58000. One other thing. Right above the tensioner on the timing belt cover the plastic just broke off very easily but it looked to me like it was score or glued together prior. I believe this is a window the dealer mechanics pop off for inspection of the belt and or the deflection tightness?? I just 3m'd it back on.

I bought mine with the knowledge of the belt and pump and used this as leverage with the guy on getting the price down. Really there are no cars out there that are without fault. Just have the belt changed.

I am very happy with the car. It handles better stock that most cars even though people will tell you it pushes allot. Yes at higher speed turns it will and that is for those who Solo race it to worry about than those driving it daily. Cheap fix is a good set of lowering springs but not to low. Neuspeeds are like 199.00. Just read Madmax's stuff here on that. I did the Mitsubishi Diverter by Madmax here/ vwvortex.com, with my APR 91 flash and it is amazing the power difference from stock. The lightened Crank pulley does give you a quicker spool I think or a stronger midrange letting it rev quicker. Did not feel any loss on the lower end and really seems stronger there too.

These are not superfast cars but a great balanced car you can live with as a daily. Don't be scared as they are great value I think for the price you can get them for used. Mine was a 58000 mile car and in great shape and bought if at- 11500.00

 

70k, 140k, 210k. $1000 through mechanic, $150 through yourself. yeah its a 1.8t issue, ut only if you forget.