My TT started giving me trouble over the last couple of days and it is getting worse.

I noticed a slight miss while driving one night. Didn't think much about it, just figured it was bad gas or something.

The next morning the car felt fine when it was cool but as it warmed up the miss became more apparent. It felt like the timing was being pulled and the check engine light began to flash. It was code P300, P301. So I immediately thought coil packs.

I bought brand new Hitachi E rev coil packs from a dealer (couldn't wait to order) put them in last night and the car ran fine, although I didn't thoroughly test it. This morning, everything was fine when the car was cool, but just as I was getting on the freeway it started to do the miss again and flash the CEL. The code says P301.

Spark plugs are 4 months old and the correct gap. The only other thing that is going on with the car is a small coolant leak just below the reservoir at the plastic Y fitting. I ordered a new one, but don't think that is the cause of anything unless it is dripping on something electrical.

My thoughts are;

Bad wires to the coils (old and dry from the years)
Crank/Cam position sensor - read about another guy having issues when the car warms up
??????

Please help with ideas

 

I think u hit the nail on the head. I am also thinking coilpack harness and it would appear you already did a visual inspection...

I'll bet your wires have been bad for some time and finally gave out

 

The only thing that leads me to question that is why doesn't it happen when cold? If I had a bad wire on the coil wouldn't it just fail or fail during movement (intermitant), but not fail only when hot?

Thing is driving me nuts. Any ideas? What are the symptoms of a bad cam position sensor?

Could it be MAF related?

 

Because as the car heats and more power is needed, the load on the wire increases. The wire may be frayed but still able to conduct at low heat. As the car heats, the load increases to a point that the electrical system can no longer handle.

Just my $.02

 

change the plugs. its $10

 

Changed them last night. NGK BR7KE gap .027" Still not working.

I'm going to try doing the wires this weekend. I have to buy some new connectors and find some wire that will withstand some heat. I'd like to find the proper colors as well.

Can someone send me a scan or link to the wiring diagram (Schematic) for that section? Please?

Thanks,

 

here you go bro...

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=17039340

 

Thank you, just wish I would have seen this earlier. Damn Friday! Won't get the stuff till next week sometime.

Any other ideas while I'm waiting for the wires?

 

update:

Changed the coils to hitachi e - did not work
Changed the plugs to new plugs - did not work
switched plugs and coils around to see if I got bad ones - did not work
ordered new wire harness for plugs, started to put it on and realized it really sucks to dig that far in the engine for wires and gave up.
Thought about what else could be, figured I would give the injectors a try. Switched 1 and 2 injectors - did not work
Thought there might be an air leak on the intake manifold, started the car and sprayed carb cleaner around the intake gasket - found nothing
Figure I would go for one more trip around the block - EVERYTHING WORKS!
Don't know what happened, but my best guess is that I had an air leak around the fuel injector but when I tested it I don't think the injector was fully seated. While looking at the intake I might have put my hand on the fuel rail and pushed it in a little more.

Don't know what else it could be.

 

MAF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
unplug it, if the symptoms go away, then its your coolant temp sensor,. oh, BTW you will get the CEL when you unplug the maf.