Audi TT The Audi TT line, in both the coupe and roadster combines Audi's All Wheel Drive performance with the feel of a European sports car.

Some new updates...

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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 05:01 PM
  #1  
silverttq's Avatar
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Default Some new updates...

So I finally got the car to a shop that has a VAG COM, and it's got NO leaks whatsoever.

However, I'm throwing 5 different codes; three of which are "voltage related." And apparently, my alternator is only pushing 30 amps, as opposed to its 120 peak.

So, the guy claims that the alternator is the root of my problems. He says he's 95% sure that it's why I'm only boosting 2 pounds because it's interfering with the ECU.

Would you guys agree with that? $600 for the alternator and labor, so I just want to make sure this solves the situation before I just take a shot in the dark. I guess it does need to be replaced for sure though.

Opinions?
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 05:34 PM
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taifighter's Avatar
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even if it doesn't fix the problem, but you need it done anyway, just do it... love your car and she will love you back. maybe.
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 05:36 PM
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once u get your alternator issues straightened out, (i'm sure you've heard this enough) but i'd fix the lower IC piping.
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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6 hundge for an alternator....WTF !!! Dude go get it rebuilt for less that 100 and do it yourself !!!
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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Exactly. Hell, autozone has the alternator for $200. There's no point in paying over $400 in labor for a two hour job.
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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^ see I knew u was smart !!!
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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ha, at least its funny spam.


anyway, if your alternator is shitting out, I'd assume you'd find yourself with a dead battery by now. Get a second opinion on that.
 
Old Sep 12, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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I'm just completely stumped at this point.

When the codes are reset, the car goes back to the stock 8-9 psi and holds. Then, the code eventually comes back, and the car goes into limp mode.

-Smoke checked; no problems.

-Took it to dealer, dealer claimed it was MAF - replaced with a brand new one ... still the same issue.

-Took it back to dealer, dealer claimed it was because I had the intake filter and intercooler on .... no dice ... the problem existed prior to those mods.

-Took it to another shop and was told my diverter valve was bad; checked it via pencil test, had no problems with it. replaced just to be no the safe side, and still have the same issue.

-Took to final shop, shop shows me five different codes on VAG COM, three of which are voltage related; showed me that the alternator wasn't pushing a lot of amps, and that it could be my issue (But of course, yes, I would assume the battery would be screwed by now. but at the same time, just leaving my doors open for five minutes, my battery goes dead. always).



Code is P1136, System Too Lean, Bank 1.

I believe one of the voltage codes was "Low Voltage in C31" or something similar; nonetheless, he claimed it was the "main powerhouse" of the computer that the code was popping up for.



SOMEONE. please help me. I am completely lost on what to do at this point.
 
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 12:56 AM
  #9  
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I had that same code.....have you done anything with the o2 sensors ???
 
Old Sep 13, 2008 | 04:01 PM
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No, haven't checked the o2 sensors yet.
 
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