hows that gonna work? You have no 'standard' to compare the adjustable coilovers to. At any rate, from memory, I believe I have about 1" of thread left below the adjustable perch. But I also have camber plates that also ended up changing ride height.

If you don't want to lower much, measure your wheel gap before you swap the suspension, and then adjust it to near stock after.
Im just slightly higher than this right now.


And I did this


So that I could mount these

 

Hi guys,

Thank you all for the input.
I did the rear suspension and it was really easy.
I still haven't started on the front because I don't have the tool "Metalnerd MN2122 strut counterholder ". I am asking around right now.
I also don't have spring compressor and here in the netherlands and there is no place where I can rent it. Isn't there a way to work without the compressor? Has anyone done without it?
Also, do I have to take axel off for driver's side and passenger's side both? If it's too much of work, and if I can't find the right tool, I might just bring it to a local garage and ask them to do it.

Let me know what you guys think!

Ken

 

DO NOT attempt to work without a spring compressor, and be VERY careful if you end up using a cheap one. If it slips and hits you in the face/chest, it could very well kill you. If a spring is designed to carry a car, imagine how much further it would carry you if released quickly...

As for removing/installing coilovers, you can spread the hub (where the base of the strut sits) by grinding down a large bolt until it looks like the metalnerd strut spreader bit, and it'll cost you a bunch less. You shouldnt have to unbolt the axes.

 

oh, the strut holder... I used an impact gun to get the old struts off, but don't put the new ones on like that, spinning the shaft can screw up the seals...

With the KW coilovers I have, and the camber plates, there was plenty of room to get 2 wrenches on the shaft and nut, so I didnt bother with that tool. Dunno what the procedure is for stock strut towers, or for vmaxx stuff. someone else will have to answer.

 

you really dont need a spring compressor. I have did my fronts twice and didnt need a spring compressor nor was it dangerous. There is a bolt keeping the spring attached and when the strut is removed, its basically at full extension and cant jump in anyway.

You will need the strut tool for the rear, otherwise its a HUGE PITA. Also they make tools that you can use if you dont have a compressor, but its a good reason to go buy one if you dont.

 

I thought camber wasn't an issue in the fronts? Why would that be necessary? Looks nice tho.

 

as low as my car is, I have the camber plates set at 0, and the stock adjustment also pushed toward zero. I still have about 1.5 degrees of camber.
But I was thinking ahead when I installed these, as I HOPE to eventually get to slap some Hoosiers on the car, and in that case, I may have up to 3 degrees of camber or beyond.

This kit also removes any flex you might have with the original strut tower bushings. What I have is pretty much a captive ball on a set of needle bearings. ZERO flex.

 

Hello,

CincyTT, What model of TT do you have? I have 1.8T coupe yr2000.
The rear was extremely easy. I finished both sides in an hour.
And there was no need for special tool to replace them.

For the front, if I don't need to take axel off and if I don't need compressor, then I will change them myself. All I need then is the strut counterholder.

 

all the fronts are basically the same. Just the rears are different. You dont need to remove the axel. Just use the strut spreader behind the bottom of the strut then remove the swap bar bolt and then top bolt under the hood. Then the assembly should slide out as a whole. For some reason the passenger side needs to have one of the subframe bolts removed so it can drop further to be removed. With an air compressor and the strut spreader, it should only take 2 hours

 

Hi,


cincyTT, thank you for your reply.

I think I will just bring the front suspensions to the garage and have them take care of it. The way you explained really sounds easy.. but I just don't want to mess anything up. Plus It's a garage where I had my REMUS exhaust installed and I would want them to adjust its position as well. I appreciate everyone's inputs though.

What's the air compressor? and what for?