from synthetic to regular oil ok? or bad?
#21
11-23-2009, 02:39 PM
easiest way to solve this... wal mart sells mobil one 5w-30 in a 5 qt jug for 22$, or penzoil for i think 11$ in a 5 qt jug... run the mobil for 6500+ miles no issues... OR run the conventional oil 3k, and spend as much or MORE per mile than you would using synthetic AND risk turbo/ oil feed problems...
again, i understand where midniteoyl is coming from as this thread was posted simply to clarify if it is safe to switch back... but everyone on here is just trying to sway the posters position and explain the reasoning as to why you SHOULDNT switch back to conventional... no need to get angry guys!
again, i understand where midniteoyl is coming from as this thread was posted simply to clarify if it is safe to switch back... but everyone on here is just trying to sway the posters position and explain the reasoning as to why you SHOULDNT switch back to conventional... no need to get angry guys!
#23
11-25-2009, 06:28 PM
You MUST run full synthetic in the tt every time. You are ******* dumb if you dont, because your just going to break stuff and fast. Anyone that doesen't know synthetic is better all the time is dumb. Yes it costs more, yes its better and yes it's *usually* worth the cost.
Why don't some people use synthetic? Because it's a shitty 1996 civic or a diesel that takes 15 qrts of oil or they don't know jack **** about cars.
Atleast use synthetic blend in anything you want to remotely last. Using non-synthetic then synthetic or vise versa isn't going to hurt anything, expect the damage from using non-synthetic oil in the first place.
If you have been using non-synthetic for a lot of miles, your engine is going to be in poor shape, regardless what you do from now on.
Why don't some people use synthetic? Because it's a shitty 1996 civic or a diesel that takes 15 qrts of oil or they don't know jack **** about cars.
Atleast use synthetic blend in anything you want to remotely last. Using non-synthetic then synthetic or vise versa isn't going to hurt anything, expect the damage from using non-synthetic oil in the first place.
If you have been using non-synthetic for a lot of miles, your engine is going to be in poor shape, regardless what you do from now on.
#24
11-27-2009, 06:49 PM
If you have been using non-synthetic for a lot of miles, your engine is going to be in poor shape, regardless what you do from now on.
Anyone that doesen't know synthetic is better all the time is dumb.
#25
11-29-2009, 12:30 PM
The reason for synthetic oil is simple. It is all dino in the end, the difference with synthetic is that it is highly refined to the point where all of the molecules are the same size and shape. This is why it has such high shear load capability and temperature stability. Synthetic oil doesn't burn until it reaches temperatures above 1200 deg F. Conventional oils flash at around 500 deg F. Conventional oils coke, which is where the sludge forms. It's actually carbonized oil which is very destructive to seals and wear surfaces.
It is very safe to switch an engine that has been run on conventional oil to a synthetic. The trick is to do a few oil changes at shorter intervals during the transition period to allow the highly detergent properties of the synthetic to help reduce accumulated sludge. I would recommend for anyone switching a vehicle that has been run for extended periods of time using conventional oil to use a product called Auto-Rx which you can learn about at www.auto-rx.com. This product is a very high quality detergent which when used with a high quality ester based synthetic oil can reduce significantly sludge build-up and condition an engine for synthetic oil. Lastly, if you have any leaking seals and have been running conventional oils you can expect the leaks to possibly get worse. That said, they may eventually get better and even go away once synthetic has been used for a while as synthetic oils soften and condition seals. That is why a vehicle that is high-mileage and has been always run using synthetic oil is very unlikely to have leakage issues.
This is from an old fart from the early 60's.
It is very safe to switch an engine that has been run on conventional oil to a synthetic. The trick is to do a few oil changes at shorter intervals during the transition period to allow the highly detergent properties of the synthetic to help reduce accumulated sludge. I would recommend for anyone switching a vehicle that has been run for extended periods of time using conventional oil to use a product called Auto-Rx which you can learn about at www.auto-rx.com. This product is a very high quality detergent which when used with a high quality ester based synthetic oil can reduce significantly sludge build-up and condition an engine for synthetic oil. Lastly, if you have any leaking seals and have been running conventional oils you can expect the leaks to possibly get worse. That said, they may eventually get better and even go away once synthetic has been used for a while as synthetic oils soften and condition seals. That is why a vehicle that is high-mileage and has been always run using synthetic oil is very unlikely to have leakage issues.
This is from an old fart from the early 60's.
#27
11-30-2009, 05:35 PM
Amsoil is arguably one of the best synthetics on the market. Very expensive though. A very good value in comparison is the Lubro Moly. Ebay seller 426hemi2u carries the 5w-40 5 quart jugs for $34.95 plus shipping. I buy from him on a regular basis. I'm very happy with the quality of the product. It is a superior oil compared to the Mobil 1 or Castrol and it is priced competitively.
#30
11-30-2009, 05:59 PM
I say regardless of which synthetic you go with, if you're gonna run it longer than 4-5K miles, change your filter at a shorter interval. (say, 4-5K miles)
While the oil itself might not break down, that doesn't mean its not picking up contaminants that will plug up your filter.
I really can't say much about Amsoil in a car. For the driving I do, Im happy with Mobil 1. I DO run their 2-stroke oil in my YSF because I know its good stuff, and there aren't as many choices on the market. Klotz is good, and it smells delicious, but unless you're rebuilding your motor all the time, it will varnish up in the bottom end when the engine cools. --but thats 2-stroke talk.
You want a definitive answer, run it, and get your oil tested at intervals to see how its holding up.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
While the oil itself might not break down, that doesn't mean its not picking up contaminants that will plug up your filter.
I really can't say much about Amsoil in a car. For the driving I do, Im happy with Mobil 1. I DO run their 2-stroke oil in my YSF because I know its good stuff, and there aren't as many choices on the market. Klotz is good, and it smells delicious, but unless you're rebuilding your motor all the time, it will varnish up in the bottom end when the engine cools. --but thats 2-stroke talk.
You want a definitive answer, run it, and get your oil tested at intervals to see how its holding up.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
Last edited by achTTung; 11-30-2009 at 06:01 PM.