tell me what do i need? half or full kit?
#11
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I,m sorry but i cant see why bother w full kit if you can have it for $300
http://www.gocpt.com/products/controlarms.htm
http://www.gocpt.com/products/controlarms.htm
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#13
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i tried to align my tt but i dont know the specs for the rear, i just put the rears to -3 degreesto the left rear and -4 degrees to the right rear. does anybody knows the spec?
#14
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I have just bought a 1/2 a kit to go with my FSD/Eibach kit. I think this should be enough since it only lowers the car a little over an inch. My question is: how difficult is it to install the KMAC kit? Is it something I can do on jack stands or would it be better to have a pro do it?
#15
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Simple as hell.
Involves removing 3 bolts per side if you're doing uppers. The 2 that bolt the control arm in place, and a subframe bolt. The bolt head gets in the way of backing out the inboard control arm bolt, thats the only reason that comes out.
Grease all the kmac stuff up with the supplied grease, press it together in the control arm, and reinstall.
Toughest part is getting the arm out/in, the trailing arm wants to move, and you need to pull it out/down to make enough distance to get the control arm where it needs to go. I get the bolt in place on the inboard side, then pull out on the top edge of the rotor and usually have my brother push the control arm down into position.
Involves removing 3 bolts per side if you're doing uppers. The 2 that bolt the control arm in place, and a subframe bolt. The bolt head gets in the way of backing out the inboard control arm bolt, thats the only reason that comes out.
Grease all the kmac stuff up with the supplied grease, press it together in the control arm, and reinstall.
Toughest part is getting the arm out/in, the trailing arm wants to move, and you need to pull it out/down to make enough distance to get the control arm where it needs to go. I get the bolt in place on the inboard side, then pull out on the top edge of the rotor and usually have my brother push the control arm down into position.
#17
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ORIGINAL: achTTung
Simple as hell.
Involves removing 3 bolts per side if you're doing uppers. The 2 that bolt the control arm in place, and a subframe bolt. The bolt head gets in the way of backing out the inboard control arm bolt, thats the only reason that comes out.
Grease all the kmac stuff up with the supplied grease, press it together in the control arm, and reinstall.
Toughest part is getting the arm out/in, the trailing arm wants to move, and you need to pull it out/down to make enough distance to get the control arm where it needs to go. I get the bolt in place on the inboard side, then pull out on the top edge of the rotor and usually have my brother push the control arm down into position.
Simple as hell.
Involves removing 3 bolts per side if you're doing uppers. The 2 that bolt the control arm in place, and a subframe bolt. The bolt head gets in the way of backing out the inboard control arm bolt, thats the only reason that comes out.
Grease all the kmac stuff up with the supplied grease, press it together in the control arm, and reinstall.
Toughest part is getting the arm out/in, the trailing arm wants to move, and you need to pull it out/down to make enough distance to get the control arm where it needs to go. I get the bolt in place on the inboard side, then pull out on the top edge of the rotor and usually have my brother push the control arm down into position.
#18
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if you are doing it without pneumatic tools (impact gun) it takes forever bro. i put first half kit on the upper and then i ended up buying another half (thanks to shox.com for just charging me the difference between full and half kit)and i installed it to the lower one. i hope thats where it goes.
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