hi everyone,

I recently did a bunch of work ot my tt 180( all of it in my garage)

timing belt,
FMIC all hard pipes, no hoses, tubing runing over the engine.
k04-001
turbo inlet hose
boost guage
downpipe with full forge exhaust
forge DV
10lb flywheel
spec stage 4 clutch
brake pads and new rotors

well the car runs great, and feels really fast, but since i have a boost guage now i can see it spiking up then dropping off, and it almost feels like i am hitting limp mode when i gun it in 4th from like 2k to 6k
it just feels like the power comes and goes.

I wanted to replace or fix the n75. with either a dual MBC or adding the modshack boost machine. what do you guys recomend. I want to boost about 22 max. i'm also upgrading to the 380 or 440 cc injectors and am going to do the 4.3v diode to eliminate limp mode. also going to swap to the tt225 maf housing.

by the way, if anyone has the 180hptt and wants to upgrade to a turbo inlet hose, i bought mine on e-bay from a company called asi and i have to say that it fit preety nice. it was made for the golf 1.8t but it fits just the same with the exception of having to close off one extra port. cost me $80. I really wanted to try them and compare the hose to samco. it was preetymuch identical.

 

My suggestion is to go with the complete set up from Modshack, if you dont feel like spending for the cash then just go with a high flow filter on the end of the Stage II ****, and then go with the boost machine, you will be able to control the spiking and also the onset of boost, ie: how hard it hits on, and will control wastegate creep so you will hold boost longer. Thats just my 0.02

 

I second that, my only mod right now is my Boost machine, more are in the mail but I can tell in controlling spikes already. I'm going with **** and FPR soon as well.

 

I thought limp mode is a good thing, since it protects the engine from damage when something goes wrong?

What would be the purpose of removing it?

 

Limp mode is good if your not tripping it from pushing it too hard. Right now I'm limited to 14psi of boost before I start going into limp mode because I'm not chipped, yeah there's ways around it, however that's just an example.

You can go into limp for quite a few reasons, bad gas, MAF issues, fuel issues, etc.. It's a good thing, but when you start turnign the boost up it causes problems, and he's running a k04-00 on a k03s tune right now so he's trying to outsmart the system.

Does that help you understand eliTTe?

 

if you do hit limp add a 4.7v 1w diode will cure that

as for n75 all i can say is



the lines from the n75 are in the mbc and the n75 is now out of the loop. runs way better for me.

 

i acctually have giac software and i think im hitting hard limp at around 17ps. when i spike it hits about 22 psi. i was hoing to go with the boostmachine, but i really wanted a dual stage boost controller so i can daily drive around 15 psi and then be able to flip it to 22psi if i want to drive harder. the **** looks awsome in design, but is the 180 version as big as the stock 225 tt one? their 225 version is bigger than stock soi dont think i want to get that one. also they dont have flow straigteners in them which might not be abig deal but couldnt that affect the way it meters?

 

First of all when your ECU goes into limp mode it doesnt come out you will have to reset your ECU by disconnecting the battery. Limp mode is where the ECU will only allow max 5psi, so if you ever hit more than that but less than your max there is something else wrong (granted that you are only going to see a spike of 22psi with stock intercoolers from the heat soak). Then you should level of at about 17-18psi, if you want to run 22 constant you should spike about 25psi then it will level off at 22. As for the **** its the same wether or not you have the 225 or the 180. I talked with Steve he said that if only running 22psi then you are fine without a flow straightner, once you start pushing about 28+ psi then you have to worry about aonelike the APR stage III kit(it comes with one).

As for the dual stage boost controller, y not just get the boostmachine and drive around not going over 15psi, its all in your right foot. That way when that other guys pulls up to you, you dont have to worry about getting out at the stoplight and switching your boost controller. I dunno those are just my thoughts.

 

17psi is the key with giac. the diode (4.7v) will limit the ecu at only seeing 17 and will keep you out of limp. If you want a dual stage check out the turbosmart dual stage mbc. its not to expensive and you can change it from the cabin. Those two will make you very happy.

 

That is HARD limp. There is also SOFT limp. He is experiencing soft limp when getting over 17psi on giac without a diode. the tune is so aggressive it does that sometimes.