TT buyers guide/things to look for
#1
07-19-2006, 02:59 AM
TT buyers guide/things to look for
Hi guys, Im taking a train tommrrow from Albany NY(upstate) to meet someone in Trenton NJ to buy his TT. We have discussed it on the phone, and it seems to have everything I want. Its a 2001 225 6 speed quattro in silver with gray interior. Has 54k miles, and I'm paying him 16k. Has clean carfax, service records. However, I hate to buy a car sight unseen, and have never bought a car like this. Im sure there are certain things TT specific to look for...obviously check the tranny/shifting, brakes, lights, engine for noises, steering wobble, door lines/door jambs for respray...anything that looks like it has been modded. However, anything specific for the TT? Thanks guys...here is the car BTW.
Also...how loud is the Miltek, and how does it sound?
http://www.jamescori.com/tt/
Also...how loud is the Miltek, and how does it sound?
http://www.jamescori.com/tt/
#2
07-20-2006, 12:27 AM
RE: TT buyers guide/things to look for
Well, sounds like you're pretty committed to buying this car, short of just taking a nice trip to NJ and back for the scenery.
I think you have a good basis to go on already, only other thing i would check is to make sure the gauges look normal. I bought my car with a bad cluster, and the temp gauge would jump to warm even before the car was started, and had sat all night, also, my speedo needle rested at about -10mph when at a standstill. (didnt notice that one for a week, and bitched out a lot of drivers for driving 10 mph under the speed limit oops...)
Guess if you wanted to, you could check the quattro too.
This is the full test/inspection, but you can only do so much on a test drive.
Function-test of the Haldex coupling.
- Rollout in circle
Aim: Check the function of the coupling and the response on the car. Is to be done on level ground.
1. Drive in circle with minimum turning radius at a speed of about 10 km/h.
Disengage the clutch and close the throttle.
Let the car roll to full stop.
2. Drive in circle with minimum turning radius at same speed as in case 1.
Disengage the clutch and run up the engine to 3000 - 4000 rpm.
Let the car roll to full stop.
* If the coupling is working the car will stop in about half the distance in case 2 compared with case 1.
* If there is no difference in the two cases there is a malfunction of the coupling. The problem could be caused by the coupling or by missing signals from the car. A further inspection has to be done to be able to determine the cause of the malfunction.
* If a noise from the HLSC is noticed when turning or driving in circles the oil in the coupling is damaged. The damage can be caused by overheating or by water in the oil.
- AWD test on car lift. (all wheels free to turn.)
Aim: Check the function and the control of the coupling.
1. Pull the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch.
Start the engine.
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch.
* Engine is supposed to stop when the clutch is engaged. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake start.) If engine do not stop, disengage the hand brake immediately. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
2. Disengage the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch and start the engine
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn.
Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds.
* Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
Trouble shooting on HLSC
- Visual inspection
Aim: Check for leakage and external damage that affects the function on the HLSC. Is to be done with the car on a car lift.
1. Check for oil-leakage from the coupling. If leakage is found, check oil level at the level screw on the left side of the coupling.
2. Check wires and connecting sockets.
T8 - Socket between car and control unit
T8/1, Red = Ign.
T8/2, Black = Gnd.
T8/3, White = BLS
T8/4, Blue = HBLS
T8/5, Brown = K-line
T8/7, Blue/Grey = CAN low
T8/8, Blue/Orange = CAN high
T2 - Socket between control unit and feeder pump
T2/1, Yellow = Pump 1
T2/2, Yellow/Black = Pump 2
- Signals
Aim: The following signals from the car affect the function of the HLSC. If one or more of the signals is missing or false the function of the HLSC will be reduced.
Bremse 1; BLS, BTS, ABS
Bremse 3; VR, VL, HR, HL
I think you have a good basis to go on already, only other thing i would check is to make sure the gauges look normal. I bought my car with a bad cluster, and the temp gauge would jump to warm even before the car was started, and had sat all night, also, my speedo needle rested at about -10mph when at a standstill. (didnt notice that one for a week, and bitched out a lot of drivers for driving 10 mph under the speed limit oops...)
Guess if you wanted to, you could check the quattro too.
This is the full test/inspection, but you can only do so much on a test drive.
Function-test of the Haldex coupling.
- Rollout in circle
Aim: Check the function of the coupling and the response on the car. Is to be done on level ground.
1. Drive in circle with minimum turning radius at a speed of about 10 km/h.
Disengage the clutch and close the throttle.
Let the car roll to full stop.
2. Drive in circle with minimum turning radius at same speed as in case 1.
Disengage the clutch and run up the engine to 3000 - 4000 rpm.
Let the car roll to full stop.
* If the coupling is working the car will stop in about half the distance in case 2 compared with case 1.
* If there is no difference in the two cases there is a malfunction of the coupling. The problem could be caused by the coupling or by missing signals from the car. A further inspection has to be done to be able to determine the cause of the malfunction.
* If a noise from the HLSC is noticed when turning or driving in circles the oil in the coupling is damaged. The damage can be caused by overheating or by water in the oil.
- AWD test on car lift. (all wheels free to turn.)
Aim: Check the function and the control of the coupling.
1. Pull the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch.
Start the engine.
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch.
* Engine is supposed to stop when the clutch is engaged. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake start.) If engine do not stop, disengage the hand brake immediately. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
2. Disengage the handbrake.
Disengage the clutch and start the engine
Put the gearbox in 2:nd gear.
Let the engine idle.
Engage the clutch. At least one front wheel and one rear wheel is supposed to turn.
Pull the handbrake for 2 seconds.
* Front wheel is supposed to turn while the rear wheels are supposed to stop when the brake is pulled. Engine is supposed to run all the time. (HLSC controlled as in handbrake turn.) Don't exceed the 2 seconds or repeat the test for more than 5 times during a 5-minute period. Otherwise there is a risk of seriously damage on the HLSC.
Trouble shooting on HLSC
- Visual inspection
Aim: Check for leakage and external damage that affects the function on the HLSC. Is to be done with the car on a car lift.
1. Check for oil-leakage from the coupling. If leakage is found, check oil level at the level screw on the left side of the coupling.
2. Check wires and connecting sockets.
T8 - Socket between car and control unit
T8/1, Red = Ign.
T8/2, Black = Gnd.
T8/3, White = BLS
T8/4, Blue = HBLS
T8/5, Brown = K-line
T8/7, Blue/Grey = CAN low
T8/8, Blue/Orange = CAN high
T2 - Socket between control unit and feeder pump
T2/1, Yellow = Pump 1
T2/2, Yellow/Black = Pump 2
- Signals
Aim: The following signals from the car affect the function of the HLSC. If one or more of the signals is missing or false the function of the HLSC will be reduced.
Bremse 1; BLS, BTS, ABS
Bremse 3; VR, VL, HR, HL
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