does the same as w/m, but fewer benifiets and at a higher cost

 

The N-tercooler from nitrous Xpress is a misting system that mounts on your FMIC and sprays either NO2 or CO2 onto your intercooler on the outside to supercool it with frozen liquid/gas discharge. $400 on summit racing

Stage 2 MAF water/meth kit... sprays INTO your charge air (air already compressed by turbo and cooled by intercooler, getting ready to go into engine via throttle body). $400 on summit racing also.

I plan on eventually using both systems... however, I'll be using R-134a on my N-tercooler too instead of just CO2 or NO2. I have infinite supply of Freon. lol

This kit is actually really cool but be prepared to do some fabrication work on your TT. (popping out rivets, removing unneeded brackets, installing new rivets and brackets, minor cutting)

there's no real place to mount the pump without first removing a few brackets between the battery and strut bar. Once removed... you have all the room in the world. Im headed back out to work some more... should have it done today with pictures.

 

grrr... well, some issues came up (non car related issues) that made me completely halt the installation half finished and attend to other obligations. I have a few days off though, so I'll be picking it up shortly and finishing it up. So far I have the layout decided... all the spaces cleaned up and prepped for mounting, pump is mounted... and had to stop and restore car to a drivable condition until im done taking care of these things.

I'll keep it posted.

 

Ok, so the methanol during this install gave me an idea.
I've been looking at the NX N-tercooler for a while... and will probably get it... but check this out.
If I use freon instead of NO2, and spray it in conjunction with a mist of water/methanol or water/antifreeze... I can "supercool" the water mixture spray onto the intercooler to subzero temperatures that will remain on the FMIC and diffuse more heat to the point of actual "cold" charge air. Not just air that is cooler than ambient eng compartment temps, but actually cold... maybe 35-40 degrees F into the intake manifold.

Now when used in conjunction with the dual nozzle setup of the w/m kit... well actually that would eliminate the need for the nozzle furthest from the throttle body as the temps would be insanely low already... but with the w/m injection kit ... I'd still only be looking at $550 for the FMIC (the one people laugh at), $400 for the w/m kit, and $400 for the N-tercooler. $1350 (still $250 less than the forge FMIC and capable of thrice the cooling capabilities of the forge. Cooling any further would probably be more harmful than good)

So in closing... this setup would be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy cooler than the forge or apr... for less money.... and you STILL get the knock protection that will allow for advanced timing and increased boost.

Can your ******* Forge FMIC do that!?!

haha... ftw

 

pretty sure that's illegal. well maybe not in korea...

 

thets environmently friendly

 

Couple pictures thus far. As stated before, Day one was 90% just looking for a spot to mount it all. Had to do a ton of modifications to free up space for mounting.

Here ya go:

Removed VTDA to evaluate space for mounting

Notice the small 90 degree bracket just under strut tower. It got removed shortly after to open a flat surface there for the pump. (two rivets hold it in.)



Boost Machine relocation. Used a self tapping screw to secure the BM mount directly to the strut bar. (did NOT drill or screw through the actual strut support, just the stabilizer bracket). BM is 200% more secure here also, much less flimsy as there are less brackets attached to each other.


Small brack that the stock airbox mounts to on the lower right (just bent it over for now to make room.)
90 degree bracket from previous picture is removed. drill out 2 rivets and pryed free. will sand and primer to prevent corrosion (some scraping from pry job but oh well, I'll blend it out when sanding)



This picture is very deceiving. Pump is mounted on strut tower. looks like the elbows stick up above the strut tower, but they do not. They can be adjusted to point down anyway. Cone air filter was reinstalled without the VTDA housing (sounds soooooooooooo much better without the housing. Plus the blow-off (DV) woosh is 150% louder than before, not sure why lol. Empty space between battery and pump is for the resevoir. It will mount on the outer drivers side wall facing in to the eng bay. Fits well and there's a small channel right below it for the tubing to be routed through. Had it not beed for that pump thing inside the passenger side fender, I would have cut an opening and had a matching resevoir on that side like the one for the WW fluid. no luck though. There are surprisingly alot less places to mount this stuff than I originally expected. Two SMIC cavities and neither of them would accomodate the pump. Pump and resevoir are almost exactly level, hoses will run beneath them. I will still be using the solenoid upgrade however.

More pictures to come as progress continues tomorrow.
btw... that 0gauge fuse holder box ziptied to my strut bar... is temporary. I put that there because i needed to get the car into a drivable state in a hurry. THAT will go in the driver's side SMIC compartment.


to be continued...

 

Yes, its very illegal. So are many other mods. (lowering your car is almost always illegal)

CO2 or NO2would do the same thing, just not quite as well. It is more than cold enough when it changes from liquid to gas upon leaving the bottle to supercool the water solution to subzero temps. Thats all you need

You could use any of the 3, I mentioned R134a because it would be the most proficient and I have an endless supply. -shrugs-

btw... I smoke too.
Man, I'm killing the whole ****** world. lol

 

i thought the pump had to be mounted lower than the fluid supply?

 

me 2^^