1999 audi a4 2.8l head bolt torque sequence
 

So I am currently rebuilding my engine and can not find the torque sequences for unscrewing any of the bolt in the head. I understand that if I unscrew them in an improper order that i can warp the head and run unnecessary costs. If anybody could help with the info i need to properly disassemble my head it would be greatly appreciated. I have found the torque specs for the bolts I am talking about but cannot find the sequential order for unscrewing and screwing in.
Any help would be appreciated!

you are suppose to remove the bolts in reverse order of installation, progressively loosening the bolts half a turn at a time. this means start at the last bolt that is supposed to be torqued down on installation and work backwords.

personally, i'd just take them out. thats how i did it. sometimes people can be a little too cautious, but to each his own. if you want to do it right, do it as listed above.

Would you know what the order would be for installation? I'm not totally sure what it is. Also, would you know if taking out the camshafts 'by the book' would include unscrewing the brackets holding the camshafts down in a specific order as well? I know it probably isn't a big deal, I would just rather be on the safe side ahah.
But thanks for the info!

heres the picture of the tightening order, so removal would be as i desribed above but in reverse order. as for taking cams out, that in my eyes is a bit more important to do correctly. you dont want to damage the cam journals. first and foremost, compress the cam chain tensioner. then remove bolts from the cam tensioner. from there work from the outer cam caps to the inner caps.

Attachment 26377

Is it possible to remove the head from the block without removing the camshafts from the actual header? The thing is, I might need to remove my head to clean the EGR port, and I was told I would have to re-do my timing if I took the head off. I'm worried about setting the timing off by a tooth, ending up in detonation.

the v6 is a tad tricky, but you dont need to remove the cames to take the heads off of either engines. with the v6, you need to ensure the engine is at TDC. youll need to mark the cam gears on both head where tdc is at so when you reinstall the heads, you know for a fact the cams havent moved

I, ve cleaned my egr port on the 2.8 12v and didn't have to pull the head. I'd imagine it's the same with the 30v? I did pull the throttle body though.

Thanks redline380, I got the heads off as well as the camshafts from the head, but i have yet another problem. I am doing a complete rebuild of the block (not so much the head which by the way, would it be important to rebuild the head if i rebuild the rest of the motor?), so replacing all the bearings for the rods and crank, gaskets, seals, the whole thing. But Im not sure if anyone has had this problem, but the brackets holding down the crankshaft are like STUCK. i got one out, but the remaining three seem as though they have been pressed into the block with a gear pusher of sorts. i have really looked at the brackets with a fine tooth comb and i cant see any more bolts that could possibly be holding any of the other brackets down. why are they SO stuck? i mean i tried putting a pipe with a few towels on the end and positioning it as perpendicular to the bracket as i could and tapping (hitting) it with a hammer. it moved like maybe 1 or 2 mm but almost not visible. re there any tools that i need to do this? any ghetto rig style formulas for this problem?

i've taken apart a 2.8 before and i know what you mean. i rebuilt my 1.8t and it wasnt nearly as bad. it seem like the main caps are slightly larger than they need to be, hence your issues.

what i would do is stick the bolts back in the cap, but not far enough to the threads. just in the caps and pound the bolt at different angles. do it lightly, but sternly. you dont want to damage the crank journals. and dont worry about damaging the bolts. you cant reuse them anyways.

a etter way to do it is stick both bolts into the cap as described above but only use your hands. pull and push on the bolts while trying to lift the cap up at the same time. hope you understand what i'm getting at.

if all else fails, pound on the end of the crank with a dead blow hammer. or you could try prying on the counter weights of the crank, just dont damge the journals

yeah so as genius as i am, i forgot to remove the bolts that were on the side of the block that held the middle caps in. I feel like an idiot for not seeing it.
I actually welded a small box type deal with materials from rona. there was a hole in the bottom for a bolt to screw into the crankshaft cap and a hole in the top where i put a slide hammer through. It was a little ridiculous but it worked.

Attachment 26338

Attachment 26339

There was actually threading on the middle-top (bottom if motor if flipped upright) of each cap where there were no pre-existing bolts from the engine. I screwed the bolt that was fed through the box into it and then used the slide hammer to whack the cap straight up. The treading stood up to it no problem! This was surprising especially with the force i was creating with the slider hammer because the bolt diameter was not that big but really strong especially since there were bolts still in the cap holding it in.

Attachment 26340

Oh and btw, there wasn't any threading in the caps besides the small middle hole. The holes where the bolts actually held the cap down before i took anything apart did not have any threading until the bolt reached the block under the cap.
Once i finally found the two bolts on each of the middle caps, i pulled them and the caps out with ease! it might have actually been possible to use masonry bolts in the cap where there was no threading but i didnt do that.

Got the caps out as well as the crank and boxed it up to send to the shop for cleaning! But yeah be careful with the caps because there are bolts that screw in from the top (when motor in inverted) as well as from the outside of the block into the side of the caps.