alright. well after slamming into 2nd last night, the rear diff did the usual rough clunk noise (i need a new mount soon). anyway, now all my gears seem laggy. especially 3rd and 4th. in 4th crusing at about 40, when i hit the gas, it takes about a full second before i feel that power hit the ground, almost like some of my bolts in my cv joints are loose. and then it sputters, almost like a misfire, then my boost hits HARD at about 1000 rpms later than usual. i was thinking maybe my throttle body got blown up, because the weirdest part is, if i turn it off and back on while driving, it drives normal for about a minute. this leads me to believe its something electrical, not mechanical. this may or not be related, but my oil and coolant temps WILL NOT get off the bottom marks. no matter how hard i beat it, i can pop the hood, and grab the hose at the top of my radiator, and its maybe 80 degrees. this means my heat is cold too =[ i could see that being a heater core, but that wouldnt explain my oil staying at 150. it has been about 20 degrees here, and i have a front mount, but still. any ideas?

 

Your second problem sounds like your thermostat is stuck open. My car has the same problem/symptoms. Except the heater, my heater still works although it's slow.

 

it was just replaced about 15k miles ago, is it common for them to fail so quickly? and wouldnt it eventually get hot? after an hour of driving, it stays cold

 

Has it been doing it since it was replaced? Sometimes they can be bad out of the box.

 

it almost always runs right at the middle mark or the one right below it, oil is always below 250, usually at about 225

 

I'm gonna have to agree with the thermostat on this one...

 

ill go take a look at it, thats no biggie. im worried about the studdering problem. i just had my center driveshaft replaced, wonder it some of those 12 bolts backed out...

 

reset the TB like you were leading to?

 

The rear diff clunk is normal even with a brand new OEM mount. If you want to get rid of that issue you need to get a Stern Power Ring to put around your OEM rear diff mount or buy an Apikol Rear diff mount.

The issue is that the stock rear diff mount allows the diff to move enough so that it hits the bottom of the frame.

Stern Power Ring
Apikol B5 Rear diff mount


I agree with everyone else that the thermostat is stuck open which is why your oil temps never move.

the bolts backing out of the driveshaft wouldn't change how the power is transfered to the wheels, car either moves or it doesn't move.

 

hmm. well i got a new stat, im gonna swap it and see what happens. im hoping that my cars just running like poop because the thermostats stuck. i rented a compression tester too