21 psi?
#11
25 psi is out of the little ko3s effiecenty(sp?) range. when you get your chip, it will probably be 1 bar (15psi) or 1.3 bar (18psi) depending on chip. all you need is an upgraded dv and you will be fine. 710n dv from the 225 tt works great or a forge 007 if you can extend your budget. don't waste you money on getting n75 j or h valves, useless. a mbc costs have the price but is not needed. the stock n75 vavle works the best.
#14
I was gonna pick up a race valve with my chip to get a few extra psi, not worth it?
#15
Its somewhat oversimplifying to quote a single psi #. But in that thread Mike states,
Originally Posted by Mike-2ptzero
I ran 26psi on my stock K03 that came with my car, that was on a custom GIAC chip for CA 91 octane....
My custom tune was tweaked to allow the throttle body to open much quicker as I hit the pedal.
my custom race tune pushed out 250chp with a K03 and ran 14.29 at 97 mph which still holds the A4 1.8t K03 record since 2001.
I ended up selling that turbo a few years ago to someone I knew and he still has it on his A4.
My custom tune was tweaked to allow the throttle body to open much quicker as I hit the pedal.
my custom race tune pushed out 250chp with a K03 and ran 14.29 at 97 mph which still holds the A4 1.8t K03 record since 2001.
I ended up selling that turbo a few years ago to someone I knew and he still has it on his A4.
Ive run the N75J on two b5s and both of them push out an extra 2-3 psi and have a smoother curve which should be better for the turbo. I defintely can feel a difference over the stock N75. I wouldnt necessarliy go out and spend $100 on the valve, but if you can get one for cheap, you will likely see some improvement.
#16
I've been boosting 20+psi daily for the last 5 years and 50k miles with no problems like many other people. It's more important to worry about sludge than anything else. The turbo gets boiling hot and really breaks down the oil that runs through it. You should worry more about reducing the chances of sludge blocking circulation to the turbo by doing premature or at least on time oil changes.
The stock N75 will get you to full boost quicker but the turbo will be exhausted by redline. The N75 "race" valve will provide a more gradual or smooth delivery of boost- nearly to redline. When it comes down to it though, you get to max boost more quickly with the stock valve. I've done all kinds of vag-com logging to know this.
The stock N75 will get you to full boost quicker but the turbo will be exhausted by redline. The N75 "race" valve will provide a more gradual or smooth delivery of boost- nearly to redline. When it comes down to it though, you get to max boost more quickly with the stock valve. I've done all kinds of vag-com logging to know this.
Last edited by onepoint8tee; 11-17-2009 at 02:20 PM.
#17
Ive heard of the "race" valve or "H" version putting some cars into limp mode. Thats why I went with the "J" version. In my experience, the peak boost is consistently higher than the stock valve, and the boost builds up more gradually but holds for longer. It makes the car more fun to drive IMO.
#18
I even sold that stock K03 to another Socal A4 owner which put that turbo on his 97 and it is still running strong to this day.
Most of the chips now run up to 21psi on pump gas.
Come on guys, every turbo used is pushed past its effiency range. Thats how you make more power. The K03 will only hold high boost for a very short time so its not the max amount of air is going to be any higher by the time you reach high rpms, running higher boost gains you more tq down low and more mid range power.
What will damage a motor is bad tuning and making too much tq then the rods can handle.