I'm seriously debating on what car I should get next, as my play car/sometimes DD. I'm having a hard time narrowing it down, but need to make my list shorter, hence this post.

Looking to spend between $10 and 14g total, for car and mods combined. Don't worry about labor.

Currently, like you see in the sig, have a '96 EagleTalon FWD5 spd Turbo, basically all stock, with a well kept and tuned high mileage engine that still runs strong. To mod this car, I have to basically go through everything, and it's going to add up, roughly around $9k after all said and done on mods.Estimate a reliable 400-450fwhp, high 11, low 12 sec with good traction.

Anyhow, if I sell this Talon, and move into something a little more refined (Audi, etc), I'm just curious if I would get what I want out of her and within budget. If money was no object, the B5 S4 would be in my targets, but I realize this caliber car is just not within reason for me dollar wise. When I had the chance this past year on a 02 Stg3 S4, I passed, and landed the Tundra since I needed a more reliable truck and not car at the time. Regardless, no S4's in my near future, which is really the direction I wanted to head.

So, after reading through the faq's, newbie guides and pages and pages of threads, I have some questions regarding the B5 A4 AEB nDBW AWD with a 5 speed, more than likely a '99.5 to get the best of both worlds, have more mod options, and keep the cost of the car down.

Here are the questions for those that made it this far, and I promise not to ask which chip is better:

1: Other thanmarginal enginerods from the factory, are there ANY other internal engine parts required (and or desired for reliability)to have a reliable 300-450hp @ the flywheel A4?

2: The guides mentioned the 5 speed can handle just about anything you throw at it, but doesn't mention anything else about driveline parts, so can I assume the axles/transfer case, etc are up to the challenge as well?

3: Also, when it comes to larger turbos, are there a lot of people realiably running the larger GT28RS, GT2871r, and GT3071r turbos? I know the K04 swap is a cinch, but how much extra dough is coughed up just to get these larger ones to fit? HP wise, looks like I would install something along the lines of the 28 or 3071r.

4: Other than a FPR, how come no one mentions anything about needing a larger fuel pump and or rail when going to a big turbo?

Thanks for the help and advice guys,

Ryan-

Note: The other cars I'm looking at are:

-2G AWD Talon/Eclipse + mods
-98 Volvo S70 5 speed + mods
-Mustang + Turbo possibly

 

My old gsx, thats what I would go with...
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/a...clipse2020.jpg

 

Rhino, that's a gorgeous GSX with very nice appointments. Don't think I could do much better.

Are you going to upgrade your engine/turbo on your A4?

 

1: Other thanmarginal enginerods from the factory, are there ANY other internal engine parts required (and or desired for reliability)to have a reliable 300-450hp @ the flywheel A4? No, just the rods. Depending on the turbo used, you can surpass 340whp on stock rods and still be fine.

2: The guides mentioned the 5 speed can handle just about anything you throw at it, but doesn't mention anything else about driveline parts, so can I assume the axles/transfer case, etc are up to the challenge as well? The axles should be fine unless you launch in higher revs with slicks and often.

3: Also, when it comes to larger turbos, are there a lot of people realiably running the larger GT28RS, GT2871r, and GT3071r turbos? I know the K04 swap is a cinch, but how much extra dough is coughed up just to get these larger ones to fit? HP wise, looks like I would install something along the lines of the 28 or 3071r. Reliablity shouldnt be a problem if you use good parts and a quality tune. Kits for a gt30XX turbo should be around $4k for the hardware, turbo, injectors, and sw. Then more for a clutch and intercooler upgrade. A gt3071r would make 350awhp on pump and should reach 400awhp on race or w/m

4: Other than a FPR, how come no one mentions anything about needing a larger fuel pump and or rail when going to a big turbo? You will need a fuel pump (either inline or both inline and drop in depending on power level). Most cases you dont need to swap fpr's, it depends on the sw and injectors used.

 

cincy, great info!! Thank you.

When you say "good parts" when it comes to a reliable turbo setup, what is classified as"not good parts"? Or just give me a few examples so I totally understand. I wasn't aware of much variation in options.

Also, at what point (hp level)are you guys throwing on the fuel pump(s)? Again, looking for a reliable baseline.

Are most guys getting their cars dynoed, then a chip burned off that, or are a lot of them mail ordering their chips based on the mods they have?

I'm used to Ford, where you mod the car, dyno the car, then they burn you a chip based on the dyno pulls, so it's custom tailored to your A/F, etc. Thus avoiding FMU's and having the chip digitally raise fuel pressure, etc.

Thanks again!

 

When you say "good parts" when it comes to a reliable turbo setup, what is classified as"not good parts"? Or just give me a few examples so I totally understand. I wasn't aware of much variation in options. Ebay turbos/manifolds. Well, some of the cast atp clone manifolds are fine (not to mention 1/4 of the price), but the ss manifolds are a huge NO NO.

Also, at what point (hp level)are you guys throwing on the fuel pump(s)? Again, looking for a reliable baseline. The stock one can handle to just about 300hp. A walbro inline is the cheapest and easiest upgrade for the car. Thoseshould do 400whp fine.

Are most guys getting their cars dynoed, then a chip burned off that, or are a lot of them mail ordering their chips based on the mods they have? Chipped for the mods. The car is great at adapting to changes to an extent and a generic tune for a certain turbo and injectors will work and then can be optomised by sw called unisettings and running vagcom logs

I'm used to Ford, where you mod the car, dyno the car, then they burn you a chip based on the dyno pulls, so it's custom tailored to your A/F, etc. Thus avoiding FMU's and having the chip digitally raise fuel pressure, etc. refer to above

 

Again, great info and completely understand regarding the cheap parts thing now.

 

for a bunch of info, look at the newbie link on top of the forum. It has tons of info on turbos, internals and so on

 

I already went through everything that looked relevant. I'll go back through it and make sure I didn't miss anything. Thank you.

Right now on the ATP Turbo site looking for specs, etc.

 

The rest of this year I will probablykeep it low key, with just GIAC and other little bolt ons. In a year or so depending on how the car is running I will go with a Gt28RS with supporting mods. I am only 16 and school takes priority right now.
Ryan