I'm working on a 89 1.8T FWD.

The clutch pressure plate was broke into 3 parts and the clutch disk had all of one side of it shaved down to the rivets. The Dual mass flywheel has heat spotting on it and isn't in great shape either. I have looked into having the flywheel just resurfaced but no one around me has the ability to do so..

So I've been looking on here as well as a few other sites for a "as close to stock" replacement.

The car is stock and won't be modified so I'm not looking for a stage 4 or anything. I have found this "OEM" kit So far looks to be the closest to stock without dealing with an overpriced dual mass flywheel.

 

That's the exact clutch setup in my '98.5 FWD 1.8T. It's been installed since late October 2011, and I'm pushing way more torque than even a chipped car, and it's holding up great so far. Has maybe 5,000 miles on it.

Clutch pedal is slightly stiffer than stock, and the engagement point is more in the middle of the pedal travel, compared to at the top with the stock clutch.

Wish I had found that price when I got mine, I got it from 034 Motorsport for something like $600+ and ALSO paid shipping on top of that

 

I just had a stock clutch put in mine in june, at a dealer. Yes I got bent over and railed hard with no lube.1600€ (for a clutch, flywheel, trans input seal, new flex pipe, throw out bearing) But it's all guaranteed and all Audi parts. now the engagement point is about 3/4" from bottom and much better feel.

 

my advice would be get this kitAudi B5 A4 Quattro 1.8T > Drivetrain > Clutch > ES#5485 RA4 Conversion Clutch Kit - Stage 1 - RA4S1-STEEL yes its more expensive, and yes, its is an ugraded clutch. BUT, the clutch plate and pressure plate are genuine LUK oem s4 components. this is the cltuch in my car with 316 awhp/ 275 awtq and no slippage. most of the parts are oem, except for the flywheel which is of pretty good quality. if you have the extra $150, id recommend it over the other one just because its a bit beefier and should hold up longer, not to mention in case you do decide to mod, youll already have a decent clutch. plus, a good reselling point

 

That is the clutch setup I would get if I were to do it over again.

The Valeo clutch setup can ONLY use Valeo clutch disks, whereas the ECS RA4 kit uses stock S4 clutch disks (as redline pointed out). Also it seems you can use any upgraded clutch designed for the stock S4/RS4 if/when you want to upgrade later (nice if you plan to hit higher power levels than the stock S4 clutch can handle).

 

Well I placed my order and got the Valeo clutch yesterday around 4pm so I just missed your messages. Not a big deal I guess. The owner is wanting to save as much money on fixing it as possible (not my way of fixing a car but I'm not the owner).

As for a little off topic, I'm needing to either replace or rebuild the driver side outter CV joint. Any place I should go to for parts? I'm not going to replace the whole axle..

 

Bump for a little more help.

 

just replace the whole axle. it costs like 20 bucks more and to me is worth saving the hassel of taking apart a cv joint. new reman axles can be had for 60-70 bucks

 

Any brands or any company you recommend?

 

Stay away from EMPI, FEQ, etc. Chinese garbage. If you can find a reman OEM one from NAPA or someplace that would work. I recently put two Raxles in my girlfriend's TT and couldn't be happier with them. Marty is a super nice guy to work with and the axles have a lifetime warranty.

That said, I rebuilt both outer CV joints on my car and it wasn't hard. Very messy job, but I decided I wanted to keep the OEM axle shafts.