Hello all,
I'm in a boat that many of you are in or have been before. I'm a 20 year old male that lives in a state with very expensive car insurance. For whatever reason, the B5 A4 is actually the cheapest car to insure for my demographic. As a driver's car, that's awesome. I'm a car guy, so affordable with a strong DIY mod community is always a plus.

The problem that I face is that many people say that this car is very unreliable and that whatever needs to be fixed is usually expensive. I've had zero experience with the Volkswagen AG other than my friend's Jetta, so I thought I'd ask for your input. What kind of problems occur most often and how big are they?

 

Do some searching. But if you know how to wrench and where to find parts, they aren't that expensive.

 

In my opinion, these cars are only "unreliable" if they are neglected or if something happens due to upgrades or the person who worked on it overlooked something.

I've had 2 B5s since more than 5 years ago and *knock on wood* never had one break down. Some boost pipes have popped off but I attribute that to "user error" (AKA I didn't connect them properly).

Most things on the B5 that "go bad" happen gradually but can eventually cause big issues if neglected for too too long. One exception is the timing belt; this is routine maintenance and if neglected can cause $1000s worth of damage.

 

My B5 A4 1.8t has 275,000 (yes: a quarter of a million) miles on it. I have the "sport package". I ride on 20"s. I lay down no less than 200hp to the wheels and bumped the redline up to 7100rpm (as opposed to the stock 6400rpm) thanks to a tune that includes a bump to 17+psi of boost on all original internals and I just replaced the original, OEM clutch that came with the car on day one (and it didn't even need replacing yet).

Having said that: I love my car. It's one of the most reliable cars I've ever owned, but you have to build them and care for them in a way that prepares them for your particular driving style.

I always say that any and all vehicles are the perfect relationship. No lies, no bullshit. You get out what you put in and vice versa. If you take care of "her", "she'll" take care of you.....forever - if that's what you want.

Here's mine: 14 YEARS OLD











Granted: Audi's need a special tool for everything, but it's worth it if you plan on caring for it.

 

I owned mine for almost two years and wish i never bought it. Its been one thing after another..no heat, replace front end,coils,plugs,icm,now my wheel bearing are going, flex pipe cracked , CEL every two weeks....ect

When the car runs, it runs great, awesome ride and handling but these cars are very temperamental. If you know how to fix cars yourself then go for it, if not it's going to be expensive going to a mechanic. Anything fixed on this car going to be 500 easy.

Going to fix a few things on my car then its up for sale next month. I needed a car at the time and a friend of a friend had the car i got now and i bought it pretty cheap but put at least 1500 into it and now im done with german cars.

 

I like what I see thus far. I've heard horror stories like kozhouse's, but I also really enjoy fixing things. Unless it's complicated electric work or major work on the transmission, I feel confident taking my time to do it right myself. Judging by A4TurboGuy's post (your car has some real personality), this can be a sweet long term project that I can use as a daily. Granted, I can't afford coilovers or 17+ psi turbo setups just yet, nor would I do such a thing since I'm here for a cheap to insure car, but this looks like something I can have some real fun making when those quotes come down with age.

I'm totally open to more replies, but I think I know where I need to start looking for my research.

 

Start here: https://www.audiforums.com/forum/aud...ion-2-a-80968/

If you're going to tune/want a turbo/want to go "fast"/etc, get the 1.8T.

If you want a solid daily with torque, go for the 2.8.

1999.5+ year B5s are facelift--newer tail lights, projector headlights (though there are aftermarket), different interiors, etc.

You'll also want to opt for the AWD drive train.

 

I'm ready to hit 200k on my '98 2.8. Stay away from automatics in my opinion. Rear bearing will go (3rd set) and oil leaks will happen - guaranteed! Do your research with replacement parts, it will save you $100's. I found my mechanic at an Audi dealer while he was on break, a lot of these guys LOVE side work for cash, but be very cool about it, DO NOT ASK THE SERVICE MANAGER!

 

One other point forgot to mention, by an oil filter from Canton Mecca racing. That $159 investment will return twenty fold, and use only a group 5 synthetic changed every 5k

 

lol. Thanks (I think).

I haven't had any wiring issues. Just make sure all of your body & sunroof water drains aren't clogged, otherwise you will have electrical problems.

Most of my issues have been relatively easy DIYs and there are plenty of DIY write-ups on here.

I have my VW/Audi guy do the stuff I don't want to do (like the timing set, all 8 front control arms, steering rack, etc.).

if you want fewer problems and more control over your gearing. I wouldn't buy anything other than the 5 speed. They're almost maintenance free.

Mine's a DD and it's the best DD I've owned. It's the all around perfect fit - in pretty much every way....and I have two kids as well. My car can be a sensible Executive sedan, or a bad mother ******. I choose which, simply by how I use my throttle and stick. Nothing complicated about it.

FWIW: I have all stock, all original suspension. Granted: my car has the "Sport package", so it's factory lowered an inch and has a little better setup than plain stock, but I've never bought expensive suspension components for any of my cars - ever. I think it's a waste of money. The car was built with the suspension it needs. Unless you're auto-crossing, or drag racing, I don't think you need it.

My tune and a new billet diverter valve cost me a grand total of $305 - and that included the ecu. I didn't have to take mine out and send it somewhere, or flash it myself. I still have my stock, original ecu if I ever want to go back to stock. My guy sent me an identical, already tuned ecu and brand new, billet diverter valve.....again: all for $305 bucks.

I put one of those new $30K Scion coupes to sleep the other night. Dude was sore when he realized that he had just got completely **** on (3-4 car lengths) by "Mom and Dad" bringing home pizza for the kids, in a 14 year old car, while he was out hunting for chicks, trying to be cool in his 2015 $30K coupe. He never had a chance - and I even gave him a head start. My girl hates it when I drive fast, but even she started laughing.

As for insurance: my premium hasn't changed at all. It's not like State Farm does surprise inspections or anything.

If you can find a B5 that fits you best and it's in good shape, WITH the records, then you really will have an awesome "long term project car" (that's exactly what mine has been since I've owned it).



I completely disagree with this ^^^.

Mobile one and Castrol both make full synthetic oils for our cars that guarantee 15K miles of protection and FRAM oil filters are perfectly fine for our cars. Especially since they're the same size of 7.0 Liter truck's filter.


I don't necessarily recommend going 15K miles on one oil and filter change, but you can.

I go to Wal Mart, spend $4 on a filter and $27 on oil. I change it myself, set the next interval at 15K miles, but I change the filter every 5K miles, which causes you to add a couple fresh quarts of oil to the engine, "freshening everything up" - so to speak.

A4 Steve's way may be better (I don't know), but I do know that my method works perfectly, under the most extreme conditions here in Fl. .....and it's a high quality, yet far cheaper alternative to his.

Just my 2 cents though. I've been wrong before.

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