Big Idle/ Stalling Issue
yes, but if you never (cleared) not rescanned but (cleared) the codes it can still be stuck in there every time you scan
and the P0411 - check your vaccum lines, they are shitty nylon and will fray when bad, replace with silicome vaccum hose
and the P0411 - check your vaccum lines, they are shitty nylon and will fray when bad, replace with silicome vaccum hose
No the code has been cleared many times and will not go away..
The big issue with the engine I found out what it was.. a large hose that connects to the black metal pipe that runs above the kombi valve and then under the intake manifold is broken. Im not sure of the part ..I couldnt get it fully out today
Anyone have a plumbing diagram for under the intake mani? Also does the intake mani have a gasket?
The big issue with the engine I found out what it was.. a large hose that connects to the black metal pipe that runs above the kombi valve and then under the intake manifold is broken. Im not sure of the part ..I couldnt get it fully out today
Anyone have a plumbing diagram for under the intake mani? Also does the intake mani have a gasket?
Went to the dealer today.. its the crankcase breather tube.. hard plastic elbow that T's into some other hoses behind the intake mani.
also got a intake mani gasket and coolant
$92 not too bad for the stealership
hopefully this fixes the issue
also got a intake mani gasket and coolant
$92 not too bad for the stealership
hopefully this fixes the issue
Went to the dealer today.. its the crankcase breather tube.. hard plastic elbow that T's into some other hoses behind the intake mani.
also got a intake mani gasket and coolant
$92 not too bad for the stealership
hopefully this fixes the issue
also got a intake mani gasket and coolant
$92 not too bad for the stealership
hopefully this fixes the issue
wow that intake manifold is a bear to get out.. I finally did and broke the coolant hose that runs behind the engine where the coolant sensor sits on. Damn it! Just when I thought I was making some headway...
Also I noticed that the Crankcase breather tube I removed had A LOT of sludge in it.. Should I remove the whole housing and clean it out? Isnt that were the oil pump screen is?
Also I noticed that the Crankcase breather tube I removed had A LOT of sludge in it.. Should I remove the whole housing and clean it out? Isnt that were the oil pump screen is?
They are cheaper on the net but not bad. The oil is bad expecially with a 1.8t, id seafoam the whole oil and intake, add a catch can for sure. The oil pick up screen is in the oil pump which is sitting in the oil pan. If you feel up to it drain your oil and drop the pan (not that hard), make sure you can see your pickup tube and its clean. and the oil isnt caked everywhere.
did the oil pump a week ago and this is what it looked like
I have a feeling the crankcase breather tube was worn and when my mechanic did the oil pump install he cracked it all the way
which then led to my engine troubles
What I was wondering audisaurus is inside where the crankcase breather tube goes down into the engine. Is that where the top of the oil pump screen is??
I cleaned it out with my fingers and there was tons of sludge in there.. thats why I was thinking to remove the flange and clean it thoroughly
Especially if its where my brand new oil pump screen is sitting..
thanks for your help :-)
I have a feeling the crankcase breather tube was worn and when my mechanic did the oil pump install he cracked it all the way
which then led to my engine troubles
What I was wondering audisaurus is inside where the crankcase breather tube goes down into the engine. Is that where the top of the oil pump screen is??
I cleaned it out with my fingers and there was tons of sludge in there.. thats why I was thinking to remove the flange and clean it thoroughly
Especially if its where my brand new oil pump screen is sitting..
thanks for your help :-)
Secondary air is common, it injects air into the exhaust on a cold start for emissions. I have run with a complete system, no system, ripped out pump, etc. It wont affect drivability at all. 9/10 times its the hard brittle line from the pump to the combi valve thats broken and giving wrong readings. cut the center section out and replace with 3/8s heater hose


