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Brakes overheating

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  #1  
Old 10-30-2009, 04:21 PM
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Default Brakes overheating

Hello guys , yesterday I did my rear left brakes on my 96 A4 2.8 FWD , I changed the rotors ,pads and bearings , just got back form work and the brakes are smoking and the rim was very hot and the rotor had a little change in color just like when you heat metal , I lifted the car and the wheel turns but not free like if the brakes are on or the pads are to thick ...any ideas ,they felt snug when I install them last night ...what could I have done wrong ..Thanks
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:28 PM
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Did ya turn the pistons back in all the way? Clean and grease the slides (pins)? How about double checking to make sure the rotors were the correct thickness? Or pads?
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:47 PM
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^^ ... You use the 'special tool'? They are auto adjusting and need to be turned in to reset them when you do the rears.
 
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Midniteoyl
Did ya turn the pistons back in all the way? Clean and grease the slides (pins)? How about double checking to make sure the rotors were the correct thickness? Or pads?
Pistons were turn all the way in if not the new pads won't go in , I wire brush the caliper and grease the piston , pads and rotor look the same just new and thicker I got them from Blau so I trust they know what they are sending me ....as far as a special tool dont know of any,I did them the same way I did other brake jobs before (non audi) so please let me know if there is anything special about them ,I'll be up early morning to take it apart and see if I find anything weird.
 
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:10 AM
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Should have been two little holes in the piston that this too fits into:



then 'twist' the piston back in. If not, they go on tight.


Oh, and never trust anyone when it comes to Audi parts.. most people here have been burned by just about every supplier.
 
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Old 10-31-2009, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Midniteoyl
Should have been two little holes in the piston that this too fits into:
Yes I so that ,I dont have the tool so I used a C clamp the one end rotates so as I apply pressure the piston rotate inward until it didn't go anymore ,what it looks like is that the pads are too thick and the is no gap between the rotor and the pad ,unless the bearings are a hair not in all the way and is pushing the rotor against the pad ???
 
  #7  
Old 10-31-2009, 12:31 PM
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From what I under stand, there are different size rotors, different thicknesses, and different size 'offsets'. When your there, take the new rotor and compare the 'hat' inside height and thickness to your old one.

http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_brake...isc_size.shtml
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:07 PM
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Ok so I think where the problem is coming from but not why ....I check the previous rotor and pads to the new from Blau and they are the same size , I remove the caliper ,rotor and bearings again just to see if something was wrong and nothing ,how ever the only thing I found is when I bolt the caliper back ,if I make them tight the rotor gets hard to turn like if the hand brake was on ,as I loose then half a turn rotor gets loose again ...but if I keep them loose the caliper has a little play and the bolt may come off with vibration ....why will the rotor get hard to turn as I tight the back caliper bolts is the question???

By the way I install the old pads that have 50% meat left and the same thing happens .
 
  #9  
Old 11-11-2009, 12:17 PM
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the rear calipers are not supposed to be pressed in. you have to turn them in. i think you've permanently messed up you caliper by pressing them in. they are now seized and will not move. the rotor won't turn easily because the caliper is squeezing it.
 
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Old 11-11-2009, 12:19 PM
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Got a pic or two?

Caliper bolt/pins or bracket bolts? Did you loose some washers or shims maybe?
 


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