so i was doin my cv's this weekend and the drivers side went great!!!

.......but the passenger side didnt wanna be as easy.




so now what? lol it will NOT pound out like its supposed to. im letting it soak right now in a penetrate but i need a backup plan, haha

 

Do you have access to air tools? An air chisel with a punch bit is prolly gonna be your best bet now. Have you tried blasting the spindle with a MAPP torch yet?

 

Let it soak in penetrating oil and see if you can punch it out. Can you spin it with the other end? You may need to warm it up with a MAPP gas torch and then douse it with water to break the corrosion.

I know it's no consolation now, but I was able to get my cv's out without undoing any of the suspension. Once you get the big hub bolt out, put the chassis back on jackstands and then remove the top bolt for the transmission on the side you're working jacking the transmission about an inch gave me plenty of room to slide the outer spline out of the hub.

 

Get a punch and a hammer. Place punch in hole, go ham. That's what I did after I busted it off and after a couple solid hits it came out. I'd recommend a hammer with some heft as well, none of that 16 oz. claw hammer bullshit. The new bolt size can be found at Lowe's and I believe it'll be 9/16" standard. Make sure you get Grade 8 hardware.

 

@airguard I think when you said 9/16" you were going by the size of the head rather than the bolt. 9/16" is very close to 14mm, but the bolt itself is somewhere around 8mm. The metric hardness rating is different from the US one. The average hardware store probably won't have anything rated above 10.9. The rating for the original should be stamped in the head.

 

I used grade 8, worked fine and yeah, we go by head size in the US. Grade 8 is good for Farm heavy farm equipment so I think it'll serve his Audi fine as long as he isn't doing crazy ****. If he really wants 10.9 then he'll have to try Grainger and they don't sell singles so you just essentially sold him 10 grade 10.9 bolts. Or sent him to some online hardware store in Germany.

 

I just drilled mine out when that happened came out easier.

 

Actually in the US, bolts are sold by diameter, length and threads per inch. In the metric system they use diameter (in mm), length (mm), and thread pitch.

Bolt Depot - How Fastener Measurements are Notated

The original bolt for the pinch bolt is 10mm x 1.5 pitch x 100mm long. I am not familiar with Grainger but the local Ace hardware had this size in stock. Another good source is Fastenal and I have bought bolts from them one at a time.

M10-1.5 x 100mm DIN 6921 Class 10.9 Zinc Flange Bolt | Fastenal

Hopefully by now the OP has gotten his stuck bolt out.

 

well... i unbolted the other end of one of the control arms and it had JUST enough flex to squeeze out the axle and slide a new one in. so mission accomplished in that sense, however the broken bolt still remains after trying everything but an air hammer. my boss might have one i can borrow but if not maybe i can rent one from somewhere.

 

Have you tried heating the spindle with a MAPP gas or Oxy-Acetylene torch and then hitting it with water? I know it sounds strange and you have to be careful about the ball joint boots, but it is amazing how it works. Rusted in oxygen sensors just turn right out after this treatment.