A/C Stop Leak
#2
All that matters is that you'll ultimately spend more money on it than you will just having you A/C problem fixed. That's what happened to me. I spent at least twice as much, 20 - $30 at a time adds up quick.
You A/C doesn't work because something's broken. No matter what, it needs to be fixed eventually. Don't start pouring money down a (huge) hole.
G/L
You A/C doesn't work because something's broken. No matter what, it needs to be fixed eventually. Don't start pouring money down a (huge) hole.
G/L
#3
Wise advice.. brought it to a shop- going to get a second opinion. They told me it was the compressor. They showed me where the dye was - but to me it was hard to see (seemed inconclusive). It really did not just stand out to me- to them they are convinced but like I said I have seen pictures (videos) where it is crystal clear and the dye is easily seen which is what I was hoping to see.
Been frustrating lately with the car (but it is just a car).
Your opinion on the diagnosis (if you have one) which is that the car holds a vacuum and the gauge does not move. However the r134 only lasts about 2 weeks or so. It lost 75% of the refrigerant in that time and of course was blowing warm. He said he thinks that compressor is building pressure and the relief valve is blowing allowing the refrigerant to escape. His recommendation is to replace the compressor, condenser and drier. He said there was no dye visible at the evaporator drain so he is confident the evaporator is okay.
Cost: $1,485 for everything ($770 of it is labor). Lifetime warranty on the compressor (don't think I need that). I could save $200. with a compressor without the lifetime warranty.
So I am considering doing it myself- $1,485 is just too much.
Anyone know of a good outlet for a good compressor, for a decent price.
Thanks for the help.
Been frustrating lately with the car (but it is just a car).
Your opinion on the diagnosis (if you have one) which is that the car holds a vacuum and the gauge does not move. However the r134 only lasts about 2 weeks or so. It lost 75% of the refrigerant in that time and of course was blowing warm. He said he thinks that compressor is building pressure and the relief valve is blowing allowing the refrigerant to escape. His recommendation is to replace the compressor, condenser and drier. He said there was no dye visible at the evaporator drain so he is confident the evaporator is okay.
Cost: $1,485 for everything ($770 of it is labor). Lifetime warranty on the compressor (don't think I need that). I could save $200. with a compressor without the lifetime warranty.
So I am considering doing it myself- $1,485 is just too much.
Anyone know of a good outlet for a good compressor, for a decent price.
Thanks for the help.
#4
You obviously have a small leak somewhere, but that doesn't mean "everything's fucked!!"
If you have the knowledge to do it yourself, I'd say go for it. A/C is the easiest way to get ripped off. My dad was an ASE Cert. A/C specialist (in FL.) before he died and he gave me plenty of insight into how disgustingly heartless soooo many shops are when it comes to A/C.
I'm sure you can find any quality compressor you wish on ebay - from the cheapest junk, to the best of the best. All at the best prices I'm sure.
G/L
If you have the knowledge to do it yourself, I'd say go for it. A/C is the easiest way to get ripped off. My dad was an ASE Cert. A/C specialist (in FL.) before he died and he gave me plenty of insight into how disgustingly heartless soooo many shops are when it comes to A/C.
I'm sure you can find any quality compressor you wish on ebay - from the cheapest junk, to the best of the best. All at the best prices I'm sure.
G/L
#5
Thanks... If I can I will definitely try to do it myself. The cost quoted if I actually need a compressor (Not convinced yet) is too much...but being I live in AZ I definitely need to fix it sooner rather than later.
#6
fwiw, I had my entire system drained to do the heater core and once it was all back together it was a piece of cake. Just get a vacuum pump to suck everything out (then leave it for an extra half hour to evap any extra water in there), then with the gauges still on, put the exact amount of coolant the system requires, back in. Worked like a charm for me, but it's possible I just got lucky.
#7
If you're in AZ, prices should be much cheaper than most other states.
Example, I just moved to OH and had to drop my car off for a day and then pay $200 to get my windows tinted. When I lived in FL, I had a guy come to my house, tint my B5 AND the front two windows of my MDX - all with the same tint I got up here, but he did it at my house, in about an hour and charged me $100 (for everything) and did a phenomenal job. Almost five years later and it still looks brand new.
In hot states (like ours) things like tint and A/C are naturally cheaper. If you get a quote that seems too high....it usually is.
G/L
Example, I just moved to OH and had to drop my car off for a day and then pay $200 to get my windows tinted. When I lived in FL, I had a guy come to my house, tint my B5 AND the front two windows of my MDX - all with the same tint I got up here, but he did it at my house, in about an hour and charged me $100 (for everything) and did a phenomenal job. Almost five years later and it still looks brand new.
In hot states (like ours) things like tint and A/C are naturally cheaper. If you get a quote that seems too high....it usually is.
G/L
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