.....So I am FINALLY finishing up work on my timing belt, water pump, thermostat etc. and really want to fit in some work on the cam seals. I ordered the ecs ultimate kit and 4 extra seals for the job. However, although I have the cam locking tool and crank pin (-BTW how and when do I apply this pin??) I didn't get the 3-arm/jaw puller-thingy...Can/Should I do this job without the tool?? Some DIY's warn NOt to, while others say it can be done with a screw driver. Is the job hard- given that I'm already in the area? What exactly do I need to do? Can anyone point me towards a DIY, if one exists?? I have searched over and over.

 

As far as I know, there's no DIY online for it. Blauparts.com sends out a DIY with their kit, but they don't have it posted.

From having done the cam seals on my woman's 99.5 2.8, it's going to be damn near impossible to get the cam pulleys off without a 3-jaw puller. They're on the shaft *tight*. Even with a 3-jaw, you have to put some serious tension on it before it pops free. The pulleys are cast iron (or cast something), so they're quite strong, but trying to lever on them might break them. You can pick up a puller from an auto parts store for about 20 bucks. Torque on the cam bolts (according to Blaupartsm, who I suspect is quoting Bentley) is 41 ft/lbs.

It's not a hard job once you have the pulley off. You take out the 3 or 4 bolts that hold the rear cover plate off, and then you have a clean and clear area to work in. Taking the seal out is a little bit of work; either get a seal-pulling kit or *VERY* carefully tap the seal with a self-tapping metal screw on each side (180 degrees away from each other), and pull it out. Make sure you liberally coat the new seal with clean oil before you put in in place. Can't have too much lube! I can't comment on doing the main seal, as I didn't do it.

My theory is that if the seals are in good shape, leave 'em alone. I realize that it's possible that they'll go in 10K miles, forcing you back in there, but if they've made it this far, they'll go a little farther. YMMV.

The crank lock pin: Ok, dig this: get everything lined up at TDC. Put the camshaft locking bar in place, and check to make sure that the timing mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the little arrow on the plastic crank pulley housing (it's at about 2'o'clock). When you're sure you're at TDC, climb under the car. If if you look up on the driver's side of the block, right above where the oil pan bolts to the block, there is a black plastic plug secured by a 10mm bolt. Take out the bolt and wiggle the plug free. There's a nice rubber gasket in there too; make sure you get him out as well. Thread the crank lock pin in the hole until it's finger-tight. And there you go. Just make damn sure you take it back out before you try to turn the engine over either by hand or with the starter, as it's possible that you could snap off the tip of the lock pin. It fits into a detent in the crankshaft, keeping it from moving while you're putting the new belt on.

 

I MUST sincerelly thank you for your time and assistance. This info is great and exactly what I needed. I will be getting the 3-jaw puller today....I have no oil leaking/sludge issues whatsoever!!, but I have struggled so much with troublesome bolts and whatnot, that I want to avoid having to get in past the timing belt area again for as long as possible. I must admit tho, most ppl have suggested to skip the seals if they are not worn. I will think on it some more today. In any case, thank you for your help brother....really APPRECIATED.