DV vac line?
I would of helped you but i was offended with the *cough* auditech *cough* [X(]
But its not hard, the dv line is attached to the n249 which is always under the intake manifold. Just pull the stock line and replace it. You dont have to take the same path back, just keep it away from moving parts. While your at it, bypass the n249.
But its not hard, the dv line is attached to the n249 which is always under the intake manifold. Just pull the stock line and replace it. You dont have to take the same path back, just keep it away from moving parts. While your at it, bypass the n249.
Basically. The vac line goes from the intake manifold to the n249 and then to the dv. The n249 can and will open the dv to control boost and i prefer to not have that happen. If you remove it, you will have to do some resistors to keep a cel from appearing but if you just bypass it, it has the same effect as bypassing the n75. So basically you get faster dv responce and it wont open unless you let off the gas
So the n249 is a failsafe in case the N75 goes bust? I know I'll get a CEL for an n249 malfunction, or something, but it seems like you can do without it completely. What kind of resistor do I need for the plug, to prevent my CEL?
The n249 is kind of like overboost pertection. It is easier to just bypass the vac lines like the n75 and not have to worry about removing it. Its not like its all that visable (eyesore) or weighs anything. So not worth the money and time spent to completly remove it.
I'm betting it would be a huge PITA to completely remove it, rather than just to tricking my ECU.
Okay, so vac line from the DV runs straight into where my n249 was (right on the intake manifold, facing the throttle body, and opposite of the FPR. Am I thinking of the right n249? [8D]) And then the n249 gets a resistor capped so it doesn't throw a CEL.
Can I put the resistor anywhere along the vac line, or do I need to find exactly where the n249 sits?
Okay, so vac line from the DV runs straight into where my n249 was (right on the intake manifold, facing the throttle body, and opposite of the FPR. Am I thinking of the right n249? [8D]) And then the n249 gets a resistor capped so it doesn't throw a CEL.
Can I put the resistor anywhere along the vac line, or do I need to find exactly where the n249 sits?
the resistor is for the electric wires, not vacuum. SInce you are just bypassing it, you dont need to worry about any of that (god, i think i have said that a few times [8D]).
Just take the line from the manifold to the dv and be done with it. If you use silicone hose, you wont have to worry about it cracking again.
Just take the line from the manifold to the dv and be done with it. If you use silicone hose, you wont have to worry about it cracking again.
Me + electronics = super fail. If you think I'm bad with that, don't even think about putting power tools in my hands
Oh, any idea on how long the vac line is, from the stock DV position to the intake manifold?
If I get blue silicone hosing for the vacuum line, will it add any horsepower? I'm looking for at least a couple whp as a result of this mod.
Oh, any idea on how long the vac line is, from the stock DV position to the intake manifold?
If I get blue silicone hosing for the vacuum line, will it add any horsepower? I'm looking for at least a couple whp as a result of this mod.
Haha thank god you caught that joke instead of flipping out and calling me a newb.
Okay, so four feet is enough huh. I'm going back down once I figure out what tubing diameter I need... I have two samples that I got from them, one is 4mm and the other is something a bit smaller, I forget exactly what, but I want to say 2.xmm. Also, it's silicone, so yay for no more tears!
Okay, so four feet is enough huh. I'm going back down once I figure out what tubing diameter I need... I have two samples that I got from them, one is 4mm and the other is something a bit smaller, I forget exactly what, but I want to say 2.xmm. Also, it's silicone, so yay for no more tears!


