Sorry all of my posts are about my brake job... Anyway, im trying to change the front pads (i finally got the rears done, woo hoo.) I finally got the drivers side front done after realizing the damn prong ended up going on the outside of the piston instead of the inside (is it too much to ask for them to be properly adjusted when I buy them). Then i move to the other side.. I retracted the piston as far as it would go, and it went back just fine. This time when i put the pads on and then went to put them back on the rotor, there wasnt enough room to put them on, not even to pound them on.. Im wondering if i should take the slide pins out instead of doing it the way i did it.. by removing the entire caliper. I thought it would just be easier since i had removed the entire caliper before... Any thoughts?

 

the prongs on the pad go inside the piston, not outside.

 

Yeah i know, i was saying thats what my first problem was on the driver side... I noticed that after i put them on that the prong ended up slipping and pressing itself on the wrong side of the piston. My question is about the passenger side, im wondering if i remove at the slide pins instead if it will go easier.

 

This is not a direct answer to your question, but make sure you lubricate the caliper pins when u take them out

 

well the pins can stay in the caliper but make sure it doesn't stick out on the threaded end so you can actually put the calipers back on. i would clean the contacts points on the caliper a bit b4 i put it back on. double check your install, there's no reason why the caliper won't go on if it's fully retracted. did you take the anti rattle pin off too?

 

I had this same problem about two weeks ago when I did my front brakes. What I ended up doing was taking a large screw driver and prying on the pads so that I had compressive force holding the clips on the pad inside the caliper. Prying between the pads gave me enough room to force the rotor between the new pads. I would suggest getting a second pair of hands as my dad pushed the rotor in between the pads while I was keeping the pressure on teh pads with the screwdriver. What pads are you using? I just did the drilled slotted rotors from R1 Concepts with Axxis pads. Pretty Sweet deal for $180 shipped.

 

Alright, so what ended up working was removing the caliper using the pins... Not sure why, i was wondering if its because ive replaced them in the past (i do remember the bushings that i replaced around the pins werent the best fit), and they did need some more lube so maybe they were sticking slightly... Once i removed the pins then i think the caliper was able to open up more (so the entire caliper, not just the piston). Thanks for the suggestions too along the way, i was sure i lubed everything as I went. Thanks for everyones help.