How do you bend valves w/o jumping time?
Crank, Cam Pulley, both cams and cam chain all lined up perfectly, yet I still bent a **** load of valves.
This happened on my stock AWM head & block, now it seems as if it just happened to my new build - AEB head/AWM block (w/AWM cams and VVT).
Both with brand new Continental Elite (complete) timing sets.
Any ideas?
Thanks
This happened on my stock AWM head & block, now it seems as if it just happened to my new build - AEB head/AWM block (w/AWM cams and VVT).
Both with brand new Continental Elite (complete) timing sets.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Last edited by A4TurboGuy; Feb 8, 2019 at 08:33 PM.
Update for anyone who runs into this issue:
In my case, everything was spot on. What I didn't realize, was that the key on the back of the crank gear had sheared off, causing the tiniest bit of play (enough to bend the valves).
If you come across this issue, the crank gear uses a 19mm (12 point) bolt, which has Lock-Tite on it, so if you need to replace it, make sure you are able to keep the crank still (which is not easy) and make sure you have a 1/2" breaker bar AND a nice, strong pipe to leverage it with, because it's a SERIOUS PITA to get off.
Replace the crank gear and make sure you use a new (or known good) matching 19mm bolt (w/Lock-Tite). Once that's done, make sure you line up all of your timing marks (Crank pulley to lower timing cover, Cam gear to valve cover and both cam notches to the rear cam caps - you should have 16 cam chain rivets between both rear cam notches). You can use a long Phillips screwdriver in the spark plug hole for the #1 cylinder as a guide/second point of reference (to TDC) when you are ready to put the timing belt/set back together.
Hopefully this helps someone.
G/L
In my case, everything was spot on. What I didn't realize, was that the key on the back of the crank gear had sheared off, causing the tiniest bit of play (enough to bend the valves).
If you come across this issue, the crank gear uses a 19mm (12 point) bolt, which has Lock-Tite on it, so if you need to replace it, make sure you are able to keep the crank still (which is not easy) and make sure you have a 1/2" breaker bar AND a nice, strong pipe to leverage it with, because it's a SERIOUS PITA to get off.
Replace the crank gear and make sure you use a new (or known good) matching 19mm bolt (w/Lock-Tite). Once that's done, make sure you line up all of your timing marks (Crank pulley to lower timing cover, Cam gear to valve cover and both cam notches to the rear cam caps - you should have 16 cam chain rivets between both rear cam notches). You can use a long Phillips screwdriver in the spark plug hole for the #1 cylinder as a guide/second point of reference (to TDC) when you are ready to put the timing belt/set back together.
Hopefully this helps someone.
G/L
Last edited by A4TurboGuy; Oct 24, 2019 at 08:56 AM.
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