2.8L 30V

While changing the plugs and plug wires last week, I took a good look and discovered that my valve cover gaskets are leaking. I can't quite tell if the cam shaft front sprocket seals or valley seals are leaking, or anything else besides the valve cover gaskets.

The good news is that the oil has not got into the combustion chamber yet, as I noticed they were clean while changing out the plugs.

But I'm getting the burning oil smell when the engine is up to operating temp, and the valve cover gaskets are leaking.

Now, before I order just the passenger and drivers valve cover gaskets from blauparts, I'd appreciate some advice.

Am I throwing my money away by not changing the other gaskets while I'm in there changing out the VCG? I honestly don't feel confident enough to take off the front end of the car and take apart the pulleys and stuff to be able to replace all the other gaskets in the full gasket kit.

Should I just man up and do the whole lot, or is it ok for me to change the VC gaskets now, and then go in and do the full gasket kit next spring or summer after I've gotten a few more repair jobs under my belt. I live in Minnesota, and whatever I do, it's going to be freaking cold in my unattached garage. It is 12 degrees out right now.

Is my understanding correct that I can do the valve cover gaskets without pulling off the bumper and putting the car in service mode? Is there any other gaskets I can replace without putting the car into service mode?

I would just start with the VC gaskets, they aren't that hard, and go from there. Just remember, if OIL has been leaking out of the VC gaskets for some time and you replace them, the 'smell' won't go away immediately until the excess oil is burned off from the leak, so give it some time to burn off....

When I did mine on my 1.8 I did just valve cover with no issues

Thanks for the advice guys, but after doing a bit of reading on Audiworld, I've decided to go ahead and replace the cam shaft valley seals and gaskets since I wouldn't have to pull the cam shafts. All it would require is renting the tool from blauparts to reduce the tension on the tension chain.

As long as I'm in there, I may as well replace as much as I can.

Yeah I did the whole valve cover and cam chain tensioner/adjuster seal change not that long ago. I bought the kit from Blauparts and so far so good.

If you're talking about the "T" shaped tool to compress the cam chain tensioner, I just got one off of ebay for 20 bucks. It wasn't too bad to replace the flat seal and half moon seal, but it was a lot more work on the passenger side.

When compressing the cam chain tensioner, use CAUTION! Make sure you put the car in TDC, then only compress the tensioner to give you a few cms of height. Then switch out the seals. If you don't have it in TDC then you compress it, you run the risk of over compressing the tensioner. Don't just take my word for it. Take out the plugs and rotate the crank with the cover off and look at the tensioner. You'll get what I mean. You do not want to break the tensioner! It's really expensive, ask me how I know.

How do you put the engine in TDC? Do I have to take the plugs out to do that?

Could someone post a picture or explain some of these other seals, I only know where the valve cover gasket seals (and the little half moon part on it), and the seals on the front of the engine that circle the cam and crank shaft.

Easy, there's an arrow on the main crank pulley and a corresponding arrow on the block; just turn the crank to match the arrows. You don't have to take out the plugs, but realize that you are fighting the compression. This makes it difficult to get it right on. Also, you need a 12 point socket to turn the crank, and it's really large, but I don't remember the size.

the crank pulley is easy if you are putting the car in service position or removing the front but it was my impression he is trying to do just the top side gaskets and not remove the front end.

I am also interested to know if/how you can get the engine to TDC without turning the crank?

I actually removed the bumper and loosened the front end without removing it. I had a ratchet with a short enough 12pt socket where I was able to turn the crank. I also removed the electric fan assembly which game me enough room to work. Didn't take that long for piece of mind.

I personally have only turned the crank by the crank pulley. I've seen people post where they rocked the car or something but that has not ever worked for me.