u know how hard it is to find a quattro a3 that they dont want 20+k for? honestly ill be ok with a fwd... ONLY if its manual and the S-line

but it wont be for a while so until then... idk what ima do haha

 

Yeah that circuit breaker idea sounds good, cause idk 25 puts you alot over.. They make replacments that fit in a fuse slot but are actually automatic circuit breakers, so they reset themselves automatically.

 

im wondering does this happen at exactly 65 every time? are you experiencing any other electrical problems? i know its a long shot but im thinking maybe the regulator on the alternator could be going out and when you reach a certain amount of revs, its delievering too much current and it blows the fuse. other from this guess, i have no idea. just solder a wire in and go

 

like right at 65-70... but ive hit higher rpms at other gears and its fine... only in 5th above 65

 

Does it just turn off when your driving or does it kinda studder than die?

 

well the motor stays on kinda... the rpms drop hella low then all the lights come on and the motor shuts off (obviously cuz of no fuel delivery)

but once i put in a new fuse it starts right back up

 

obviously....I shouldn't have to ask this but what were the fault codes?

 

thats the thing... there are no fault codes associated with it.... the only codes i ever get are engine temp sensor
(which i replaced today)
side 1 bank 1 o2 sensor
side 2 bank 1 o2 sensor
no packet flow detected side 1 bank 1 o2 sensor

ive even hooked up the scanner right after the car shuts off and no new codes pop up... i talked to the audi tech advisor too and he looked confused too, so idk what to do.. im tired of throwing money at random parts

 

Throwing money at parts is called "shotgunning" and thats what stupid people do, you need to diagnose it.
What are the actual fault code numbers, because i don't know what a "no packet flow detected" is, or what "side O2 sensors" are.

B1S2 (bank 1 sensor 2) would be the correct term, i don't even know whats going on there.
You also need a vag com to diagnose this, not a code reader, you aren't gonna get anywhere with that peice of junk.

 

I'm thining a bad internal ground also bro. I work with electrical components at work and DC is a ****!! it wants perfect juice...i know you said you changed your fuel pump, but that would be the first thing I would blame. As you go higher speed, the fuel pump is given a certain voltage to maintain a certain pressure. Speed is not the variable. Its the demand. You say this usually happens at 5th gear right??? not the others?? At 5th gear, if your stepping on your throttle at that speed, you asking for more torque, therefore needing a bit more fuel pressure.....thats why your avg mpg's go down when you do that. To me i would check continuity on all terminal of the pump itself, and do a voltage load test on it, or meticulously check your wiring........just my .02