Have you bought that turbine housing yet? I would be a lil skeptical and ask details about its origin. If you look at Garrett housing you will see a N4 or N5 number typically on them. A lot of newer ones don't have this as it was standarized. The N stands for Nickel content in the Cast (its actually NiCast) which is what makes it hold up to cracking at the extreme temperatures seen inside these housings.

It also does not have the patina of a typical high nickel content cast.

Can't wait to see your results and reactions to the turbo selection.

 

lets just say if I end up going through with it then I will no longer need the hx35
Also I think we both have black cars and I want to figure out a way to go 2.0 for "cheap" as well

@zandrew bullseye is well known and trusted, a local guy to me has been running that hot side for ~2 years now so I'm not worried about that. I'm pretty excited for this summer to say the least

 

[QUOTE=redline380;1426440]i want more details! i've just been so giddy lately im seriously considering throwing at least half my paycheck every two weeks at parts so i can get a 2.0/holset done. i'm very interested in seeing exactly what you got going on. and if you want cheap 2.0, just check out junkyards. my extra block and crank have been sitting around forever. just havent gotten around to buying the expensive parts.

p.s. yeah, bullseye is the way to go for holset hotsides. ask any dsm guy

 

Bullseye makes damn good **** and I agree 100%. I was talking about the turbine housing you posted the link too on eBay. Its not Bullseye or if it is then I am misunderstanding. If you have purchased then post some pictures of it if you don't mind.

I am doing a rod review in just a minute. Might be worth checking out if your like me and want save every last penny.

 

Just to check on the 2.0 stroke, is it the 2.slow crank, or is it the 2.0 TFSI crank that is needed. Cause **** ill go pull the 5 2.slow cranks out of the yard for $20 bucks a piece.

 

I'm pretty sure either will work? But everyone I've talked to has gone with the 2.slow ABA because its readily available and forged.

@zandrew, not sure how much of my thread you read but I already installed IE rods that I got used for a real good price, I hate paying full price for anything.

@redline, the guy local to me whos been helping me out has a 2.0 with a holset and I havent gotten to ride in it yet but he said its an absolute animal. He has the 2.8 trans (just tossing that out there) and he hits 28psi by 3600rpm absolutely unreal.

I think I'm going to find a junkyard 06A block, get it bored, get an ABA crank, used aftermarket pistons and rods and sell my current block with forged rods, and the prices should almost offset and I'll have a 2.0 stroker.

 

28psi by 3600 RPM??? I am dying to see it. Is he using anything else to get it going? You know the EFR does not spool that fast and god forbid a JOURNAL bearing turbo outperform a Ball Bearing unit.

 

good plan. its what i did/ am doing, however make sure you get an aeg crank, or one of the other two new style cranks. the nose on the 06a cranks is longer, not to mention the oldr 058 2 liter cranks wont work with a chain driven oil pump. so yeah, make sure you get a 00 or newer 2 liter (i think)

 

so MK4 or newer 2.slow cranks. Paired with an 06A block. All can be had at a yard. The pistons and rods and all the components really dont cost that much. ~$1000. So one can have a 2.0 full built stroker for under 2k. I am snagging a crank this week!

 

I have been debating this as well but I have yet to come by any threads of a before and after to actually show the difference between the 1.8 and 2.0. I am sure there is a difference I am just wondering how noticeable it is and if it makes that worth while. You really want the turbo to match the setup. It looks like about all T3T4 setups respond pretty decent with the 2.0 without a massive sacrifice in spool or a flat tope end.

I don't want to end up with a setup that is blast past 4K when my driving typically does not go past that RPM.