well im definatley considering it.. ill know immediatley how it feels under all applicable situations, from 1-4 fast gear changes to highway pulling in 4th and 5th and from second on thru.. it just seemed to be everything i read was all bad but they were all on different engine codes and all ndbw like mike said.. i think ill give it a shot

 

goes on tomorrow.. ressurecting this thread in order to help out future fellers who are lookin for the same info.. new clutch just went in too so we will see how the old girl acts with the N75 race from ECS

 

That and a new clutch ought to really make a nice change.

 

the clutch is the absolute ****.. pedal is much much lighter, clutch catches much earlier.. and you can just feel the meat and taters on it, feels so much more connected and grounded, and obviously much quicker since it doesnt slip haha.. but yea im curious to see how the N75 race works out.. people talk about how it makes the car very on/off and whatever but i cant rest til i figure it out for myself.. so we will see tomorrow.. other than that, id say the little k03s is about maxed out on this AEB!

 

Lol good - get a GT28RS and go nuts. The valve should be a good mod for you.

 

Ha... Funny how I as well have put off this thing for so long, simply because I wasn't sure... Thanks for being the guinea pig. (I almost ordered one the other day too when I ordered new lowers from ECS).

Looking forward to the update...

 

lol if i ever go GT28 it will be when this is no longer my daily.. if i could have spent half the money ive spent fixing my car from hitting deer on an ELIM setup itd be in there already! and brad, ive been eyeballing this thing forever haha and all this hmm'ing and ha'ing i couldnt take it anymore.. had some spare cash so why not throw it at my car haha..

i googled the N75 just to see if someone had a writeup on it and sure enough there was.. theres always little things to look for and do when doing even such a simple task on our cars.. took my half *** air supply to my intake apart and off.. then undid the clamps and took out the pancake valve.. underneath that puppy is the N75.. unplugged it, and as you guys mostly know that the valve looks like, it has a 3 way connector.. the left side is inserted into the TIP, and being that i have an APR TIP it was pretty easy to manuever it around and get that one off first, im sure prolly just as easy on the OEM one.. top one came off next and this is where it got annoying.. they have these press clamps on there, which if they were in the open they wouldnt be tooooo bad to get off, but being that there is next to no room to move your hands with tools in there, it was a pain.. busted a few knuckles getting them off, but i just use some bullheads to pry it apart enough to get the valve out of the line, and then once it was out i twisted it enough to slide it off the line.. ECS supplys you with 2 adjustable hose clamps with the valve.. anyways.. finished it off, threw everythign back together in order and made sure it was all tight like i knew it wasnt coming off again.. i figure this way, at least if my car ran like **** it wasnt from the fact that something wasnt tight or loose..

started her up, and she idled and ran just like nothing ever happened.. so i let it warm up for a min (38 degrees here today) and took it about 5 miles down a road here in town with a few straights and what not.. didnt get into boost at all on the way to the turnaround.. just let the car warm up and do any sorta reading it wanted to.. turned around and she was up to engine and oil temp.. went thru 1st gear without getting on it.. new clutch and 1st is pointless to beat on anyways in this car.. gave her a good bit of throttle in 2nd and the boost in mar car has always taken at least 1/2 throttle to make her happy, it kinda comes on gradually? but with the valve in there, it woke it up a little bit, enough for me to notice it, and jumped up there a little faster, and i hit 15 pounds in second, which is roughly normal for my second gear.. shifted into third and got on it hard and she flew up to 17-18 and held there perfectly for just a second or two and tapered back down, and 4th was the same story..

so overall it accomplished this: gained a few psi through the gears, and im sure 5th will prove to be the same story.. it also got my boost to creep up faster with less pedal effort, which was very noticeable in my car, since its always taken a good amount of gas to get the boost up. it was smooth as butter, no sputtering, no jerkyness, no on/off boosting, no surging.. no nothing.. the car ran beautifully, and super smooth.

i am an AEB, early 1999 1.8t.. other mods are down below, and jeremy youre right it was the perfect compliment to the car. Mostly what ive read is people with the DBW motors having trouble with the valve. i even read from some forum post talking about it that the guy heard "98.5" motors having trouble with it.. but thats honestly about what i am. im as closed to a 98 as you can get without actually being one.. so if you have an AEB, and are tuned.. i say lay on it, for 75 bucks, it was worth it to me. easy install... im happy with it for sure.

 

Glad to hear you like it so much. Now, I must consider it even more...

 

Do it.. i hope it brings you as much success as i feel..

Just got to work and had to do some city driving and brief highway acceleration, and it was phenominal. just to re-itterate, its so much smoother with the boost and shifting, and alot of that is the clutch im sure, but it just feels right there now.. put the foot down less and the boost gets up there faster and it just works so well. car pulled hard for a k03s, and acted much much better now that before.. the clutch is the real big difference but the combo works well.. if youre AEB, get the valve.. now all i can wonder is how it would feel with a GIAC tune.. i wanna see how that tune compares to the APR..

 

Apr tunes are really conservative as giac is really aggressive