Newbieee and WTB a A4
#1
Newbieee and WTB a A4
Hey everyone,
Just starting to get into this Audi game a little and going on a hunt for the right one. Looking like a quattro forsure so I can still go to up the snow. Now i'm trying to decide wheather or not to shoot for the easy modable 4 cylinder or the 6 that you can only do a few things too.... What is the best year out there engine wise? I can take my time to find one becasue i'll be driving a different car until the time is right. Also it's gotta be a manual. I'm doing my fair share of searching on the site but if I could get some direction I would really appreciate it.
Thanks everyone,
-Joe
Just starting to get into this Audi game a little and going on a hunt for the right one. Looking like a quattro forsure so I can still go to up the snow. Now i'm trying to decide wheather or not to shoot for the easy modable 4 cylinder or the 6 that you can only do a few things too.... What is the best year out there engine wise? I can take my time to find one becasue i'll be driving a different car until the time is right. Also it's gotta be a manual. I'm doing my fair share of searching on the site but if I could get some direction I would really appreciate it.
Thanks everyone,
-Joe
#2
RE: Newbieee and WTB a A4
You'll want a '99.5-'01 1.8t quattro. You'll also want to save an additional $3000-$4000for when it reaches 80-85k miles, because thats when all the typical b5 a4parts starts crapping out. The engine is fine but the drivetrain and the most randomstuff like tie rods and condensers start going to hell.
#4
RE: Newbieee and WTB a A4
I'd like to mod it but then again I need a daily driver that is somewhat good on gas.
What do the V6 motors pull MPG wise?
Alsoo what year did the v6 motors change to the 12valve to the 30valve?
Thanks,
-Joe
What do the V6 motors pull MPG wise?
Alsoo what year did the v6 motors change to the 12valve to the 30valve?
Thanks,
-Joe
#6
RE: Newbieee and WTB a A4
I'm not sure millage wise 12v vs 30v but the 12v was in the 96 and 97's and 98+ is 30v.
Personally I would get a 1.8t if I were you. Look in the classifieds and I'm sure you can find one that you might like.
Personally I would get a 1.8t if I were you. Look in the classifieds and I'm sure you can find one that you might like.
#8
RE: Newbieee and WTB a A4
AEB FTMFW!
1.8T DBC as far as the most/easiest/best/strongest/prepared motor to mod
dbw is lame...lol
umm...I think I am a little biased, but at the same time I love my motor and I like to know that it was built to go....even 100K later it is still ready for a GT28 to bolt right up to it
ummm, besides that, make sure that whichever car you buy has all of its maintenance paperwork!
make sure the TB has been replaced for shure!
If you are fine with just a semi quick A4, you can always go with a 30v 2.8...steer clear of the 96/97 12v's
hmmm....well, if you don't diy I would not suggest an audi...if you are mechanically inclined you could go for any audi, but you should always have about 1000$ or an emergency credit card ready, because these cars have surprise problems that are practically unforseeable...
as long as you keep up your preventative maintenance you should be fine....
I just had to replace both fron axles and the rear driveshaft...600$ just for the parts!
and while replacing those I found out that my motor mounts and upper control arms were trash...another 300$...so I am looking at $1,000 in just parts over the last two weeks...
there are alot of things that go bad on these cars about every 100K just from regular wear and tear...I am changing these things before there are any terrible noises, and especially before they become a larger problem...
if you don't stay active in the life of your audi and maintain it properly it will ben you over and stick it to your wallet....
I just remembered that my rear brake pads are also on their way out!
don't buy a salveged title car, don't buy a car that has been in a major accident, don't but a car that needs body work, don't buy a car with door dings and little dents, don't buy one with faded paint, don't buy one with bumpers that have scrapes and gouges...make shure everything works...these cars are stupid expensive to repair, or even to replace parts. (I bought my car with door dings and water spots and now I hate them soo much that I am coughing up 2,800$ to make the car look like new again)
expect to pay somewhere between 7-10K for a nice looking, healthy A4 with 60-100K on it...try not to buy a high mileage 1.8T...
also take the car to a certified audi/vw mechanic and have the whole car "once-overed"....the last thing you want to do is get scammed...I have heard of a person on one of the forums buying an A4 and having the turbo go two days later...lol...I don't think they got their money back, some kind of as is deal....I believe it was a nast sludge problem....
before buying anything, drive it for at least 20 minutes...let it warm up, get in some stop and go and then get it on the highway and make shure there isn't any wobbles or shaking or and other funny noises...
alright, well, that's just what i learned from my own personal experience....about a year and a half ago I paid 6,500 for my A4
but right after I bought it i had to have the timing belt done and I had to have a few gaskets replaced....which was another $2,000 (I took it to a dealer)
and on top of the repairs it needed a new set of tires! (another $400)
so, to get my car on the road and running right actually cost me $8,900
its a brilliant black, 1998.5 A4 1.8T Quattro Manual, and it had 87K on the odometer. it now has 117k on it with no motor problems ever *knocing on wood*...lol
good luck!
hope you find what you want!
1.8T DBC as far as the most/easiest/best/strongest/prepared motor to mod
dbw is lame...lol
umm...I think I am a little biased, but at the same time I love my motor and I like to know that it was built to go....even 100K later it is still ready for a GT28 to bolt right up to it
ummm, besides that, make sure that whichever car you buy has all of its maintenance paperwork!
make sure the TB has been replaced for shure!
If you are fine with just a semi quick A4, you can always go with a 30v 2.8...steer clear of the 96/97 12v's
hmmm....well, if you don't diy I would not suggest an audi...if you are mechanically inclined you could go for any audi, but you should always have about 1000$ or an emergency credit card ready, because these cars have surprise problems that are practically unforseeable...
as long as you keep up your preventative maintenance you should be fine....
I just had to replace both fron axles and the rear driveshaft...600$ just for the parts!
and while replacing those I found out that my motor mounts and upper control arms were trash...another 300$...so I am looking at $1,000 in just parts over the last two weeks...
there are alot of things that go bad on these cars about every 100K just from regular wear and tear...I am changing these things before there are any terrible noises, and especially before they become a larger problem...
if you don't stay active in the life of your audi and maintain it properly it will ben you over and stick it to your wallet....
I just remembered that my rear brake pads are also on their way out!
don't buy a salveged title car, don't buy a car that has been in a major accident, don't but a car that needs body work, don't buy a car with door dings and little dents, don't buy one with faded paint, don't buy one with bumpers that have scrapes and gouges...make shure everything works...these cars are stupid expensive to repair, or even to replace parts. (I bought my car with door dings and water spots and now I hate them soo much that I am coughing up 2,800$ to make the car look like new again)
expect to pay somewhere between 7-10K for a nice looking, healthy A4 with 60-100K on it...try not to buy a high mileage 1.8T...
also take the car to a certified audi/vw mechanic and have the whole car "once-overed"....the last thing you want to do is get scammed...I have heard of a person on one of the forums buying an A4 and having the turbo go two days later...lol...I don't think they got their money back, some kind of as is deal....I believe it was a nast sludge problem....
before buying anything, drive it for at least 20 minutes...let it warm up, get in some stop and go and then get it on the highway and make shure there isn't any wobbles or shaking or and other funny noises...
alright, well, that's just what i learned from my own personal experience....about a year and a half ago I paid 6,500 for my A4
but right after I bought it i had to have the timing belt done and I had to have a few gaskets replaced....which was another $2,000 (I took it to a dealer)
and on top of the repairs it needed a new set of tires! (another $400)
so, to get my car on the road and running right actually cost me $8,900
its a brilliant black, 1998.5 A4 1.8T Quattro Manual, and it had 87K on the odometer. it now has 117k on it with no motor problems ever *knocing on wood*...lol
good luck!
hope you find what you want!