Getting an occasional CEL, showing codes 1118 and 1114.
Clear CEL and Ok for several start/drive/stop cycles, & then returns.
Wiring looks ok. Resistance for heater within specs. Readout on live data shows reading similar to other side. Underhood O2 plug in good condition & seated tight. Battery voltage A-OK.
Also, just passed "smog test" with flying colors.
Just don't feel like spending $200 for an O2 sensor that "might" get rid of the CEL.
Any thoughts or comical jabs welcome.
Cheers
TheCounty

 

How does the plug on the firewall look?

 

First off - welcome.

Second - where are you looking to buy an O2 sensor that it will cost $200???? The dealer? If you post up information about your car (year, engine) I bet we can find you one for less than $100.

Third - over time oxygen sensors start reading rich. So even if you passed emissions, an O2 sensor giving rich values from being old will put more stress on your catalytic converter and will waste gas.

Fourth - I didn't bother checking what your codes are. Are they for the post-cat and pre-cat O2 sensors?

 

Plug on firewall looks as new.
P1114 "Bank 1 - Sensor 2 Internal Resistance too high"
P1118 "O2 Sensor Heater Circ., Bank 1 - Sensor 2 Open"

As mentioned, Measured heater resistance is within specs @ 10 to 11 Ohms (Audiworld Tech mentions anything under 20 Ohms is ok )

Thanks for quick replies.
Cheers
TheCounty

ps $200 + is the going rate in Canada for O2 sensor.

 

Sensor 2 refers to the post cat sensor. If the sensor heater resistance checks good, then there is a problem in the wiring from the ECM to the sensor. Being that the problem comes and goes it is probably due to a bad or dirty connector, or damaged wiring. The post cat sensor does not affect how the engine performs,its purpose is to check on the cat condition.

 

My thoughts exactly z28pete. Just checking for any vehicle specific gremlin I may have missed. Will likely replace sensor or at least remove from car & static test. Shall follow up if something interesting shows.
Cheers
TheCounty