I'd like to stay away from lightened flywheels so that I retain torque since this car is only used on the street, and I like the low end.

 

Basing it on my 8 years of drag racing my A4, with everything from a K03 to the GT35r. I was the first dbw car to need a upgraded clutch, so it was used by a friend of mine to produce custom clutch kits that were then sold under the Werks of Art name. This was well before SB or Spec even got into producing A4 clutch kits.

Even SB suggests a clutch higher then their stage 3 for anything making more power then a chipped 2.8 and I am sure you are making more power then that with that K24.

Stay away from the 9-12 lbs flywheels then. The 15, 17 and 20 lbs billet steel flywheels is what you would want then. I even use a 15 lbs flywheel on my car and the only thing it gets used for is drag racing. Southbend made the 20 lbs flywheel for people that like to drag race and it has just about no chatter. Just last week I was able to talk them into making a slightly lighter weight flywheel that people could buy along with their clutch, so they decided to come out with a 17 lbs which is just the 20 lbs flywheel with a little weight removed from the back side.

The stock flywheel is 25 lbs.

 

looking at the picture you have up of you enginge bay your cone filter is way to close to the manifold/turbo, all your doin is sucking the radiating heat of the manifold back into the car past the mass sensor, you should get or make some kind of heat shield to block all that heat coming off your motor, just a suggestion.

edit: am i supposed to get chatter from a 12lb flywheel, i have atpturbo flywheel and clutch combo, and i dnt have any chatter the only problem is i cant use and other clutch with this fly wheel, and i am close to the hp/tq range for this clutch so ill need everything when it comes time to do the clutch because i will make more then what it says by that time. the hp/tq rating is 400.

 

Yeah, this has been on my "to do" list since I got the car. I've made intake "boxes" before and have the supplies, it's just the time. Since I've owned the car (for almost a year now), I've had a short shifter and a turbo timer sitting in my garage that I haven't had time to put on, along with the bumper that I've been driving around without.

The filter now is just kind of flopping around with a couple zip ties the previous owner put on it to keep it from falling off. haha

 

Well the chatter noise people get is just a clicking noise they get while at idle and out of gear. Most people only notice when they are sitting next to something like another car or wall.

This ATP kit?



That is just a standard 12 lbs Billet Aluminum Aasco flywheel that nearly everyone in this world sells. Aasco even makes a 11 lbs version. So you shouldn't have any problems using it with another clutch kit and you can even buy a replacement surface ring for that flywheel.

here is the 12 lbs Aasco flywheel offered by AWE, same flywheel.

 

yeah that is exactly what i have
well then let me see if i can exsplain the problem i had.
after the install of all my parts of course the stock clutch could not hold it but it had a light weight flywheel already installed beccause when i bought the car it had sachs racing clutch and i ripped the spline assembly off the clutch, moving forward i had a stock clutch put in and i had all new parts put in and way to much power so hey i already had the light weight flywheel so i just purchased the clutch kit without the flywheel. well i had it put in and the car didn't wrk, come to find out the car would not go into any gear and was stuck in first gear, first i had called them and they said the clutch would wrk with the other flywheel, so i called them when it didn't work and they told me that there is no way there clutch would work with any other flywheel other then there own, so i bought theres and of course it worked. i can't exsplain why it didn't work.

but also does that mean i can buy another clutch from another company and it should work, i hope cause with my plans i dont think the atp clutch can hold much more.

does anyone make a performance throw out bearing for our cars because i have to say im not bad with the clutch but sometimes i get throw out bearing chatter.

 

What type of clutch were you trying to put in? Sounds like they were trying to install a sprung hub facing toward the flywheel with a set of flywheel bolts that have a stock height head. You cant NOT do that. To install it that direction you need to use bolts that have a very short head so they sit low enough to allow the disk to spin without catching the bolts. Believe me I see this issue come up when people use stock flywheel bolts on a lwfw and then face the taller side of the sprun hub toward the flywheel.


Pretty much all of the clutch kits are produced to work with nearly all of the flywheels. Only flywheel that didn't work with most of the clutch kit was the old Fidenza flywheel which did not have a dished center, so it put the flywheel bolts up near the surface of the flywheel and could really only be used with a unsprung disk.

If you have the same flywheel as you see in the picture I posted earlier, then yes you can use a SB or Spec clutch. If you need one feel free to contact me or order one from our site.

No after market throw out bearings, just stock.

 

For what about clutches? As I drive a 09 ford fusion and replaced the clutch once. Most stock clutches if used right last half the cars life. But that's ford, Audi? I'm about to learn plus test drove one andi question the clutch in it.
stage 2 is just under mine but a 4-5 will do best as 4 is just shy of racing and 5 in nornno standards a
Is more considered racing.
If you find slipping or launching your car? A pain? Get the clutch and flywheel checked
If Bad? Replace them with 3-4 stage. If done? Highwats and beating traffic lol will seem like a stand still.
Good luck. Cheers