Gents,

I was wondering if anyone knows the locations to read and readings for oil pressure that should be expected in a 97 1.8t 2WD. I've been getting the dreaded "cheep cheep cheep" and the oil light, and the accompanying "tick tick tick" from the head. Oil level normal. Slightly frothy at the filler cap (assuming due to cleaning conditioner added at the oil change.) Not frothy at the dip stick.

I've just recently changed the oil, Castrol Syntec 20-50, with Mobil1 filter. Does this seem too heavy for the winter? I've always ran this oil (my 50k miles), as did the OG owner (first 88k miles). Perhaps its time to switch?

I thought maybe it needed to warm up, so I let it idle for more than 15 minutes (when it was 10*F outside), and as soon as I put it in drive and got about 2500 rpm, light and chime.

I've searched the forums and consulted my Haynes (Bible), yet can't seem to find any info.

Please don't tell me I need to overhaul this warlock, my wallet can't take it. =/

Thanks,

Cory

 

does your engine have sludge?

 

It would seem like I've got some sludge, being as that the underside of the oil filler cap looks a little bit like ****. So, yes. I have sludge.

Are there ways to remove the sludge? I'm learning that some people do a pressured oil change, but i've never done this. Is this some sort of dealer-only thing that I'm looking at?

Thanks,

Cory

 

20-50 seems to thick for winter for my taste. That's just my 2 cents. I run 5w40 winter and 10w40 summer

 

ok if your oil light is stuck on you engine is next to fucked... what happens is your pick up oil tube down in the oil pan gets stopped up and restricts oil pressure and flow- sludge. thats why i asked if you had sludge!!
so you need to replaced your pick up tube and while your there clean the **** out of your oil pan and you will obviously have to do an oil change in the process ONLY use
0w-40 or 5w-40 oil and i recomind castrol just cause that is factory spec and then you will want to do an oil change every 2,000 miles for 10,000 miles and you will notice the oil getting cleaner and cleaner each oil change!!!
and you can possible save your motor=]

oh and pressured oil change is only if you want to use the chemical break up **** for sludge.. or an easier way is do an oil change anddo 4 qaurts of oil and one quart of the chemical clean dirve it like 200 miles then do an oil change again and see if it is clean...

but i still would recomind my first suggestion ^^^ up there

 

Well, the thing seized up while idling at the gas pump. So, my guess is an oil pan pickup tube isn't an option any longer...

Anyone wanna ship a motor to 65401?

:sadface:

 

dang that sucks man.. sorry to hear that. Well you could always rebuild the motor...
but it probably be cheaper to buy one from a junk yard take it apart while its not in the car and make sure its good. and do a swap.. ooor part your car out and get a new b5.
and make sure it doesnt have sludge.

 

You can try dosing the oil with seafoam a few times to break up the sludge. There's also a small possibility that the sensor is bad...

 

+1, no one even uses that weight in the summer. I dont think that would make your oil press light come on. And, I dont think its your pressure sensor if you are hearing valve noise, I would try a thinner oil and desludge.

 

since his motor seized up on him...

I think its a bit late for suggestions?

/thread