Oil pressure problem: Dealer has no idea!

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Mar 1, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #31  
Quote: Well that wouldn't be the end of the world actually, it would be some labor but its easy enough to pull the cams and crank shaft out, brake clean the hell out of everything and change out the bearings. If he did it himself he could do the repair for less than $200. Now if the clearances in the engine are bad, its best to buy a new engine.....which WOULD suck.
Yikes. This is getting out of control! if I change that oil cooler and still have low oil pressure, I am probably going to just sell the car. I don't have a big job like that in me. Man, I sure hope the dealer wasn't right.
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Mar 1, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #32  
Honestly dude, its probably a 50/50 chance the oil cooler will fix it. I would try and find a used oil cooler to throw in there from www.shokan.com, at least you won't waste a lot of money trying it. If that doesn't fix it, you pretty much are screwed.
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Mar 1, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #33  
Quote: Honestly dude, its probably a 50/50 chance the oil cooler will fix it. I would try and find a used oil cooler to throw in there from www.shokan.com, at least you won't waste a lot of money trying it. If that doesn't fix it, you pretty much are screwed.
Wow, that site is pretty cool! If I can't find one there I can snug one new for $75.
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Mar 4, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #34  
I checked my pressure. Here are my results.

idle: 17-20 psi
2000rpms: 45 psi
4000rpms: 80 psi

These were taken after the car was warmed up. What are some normal pressure readings?

Also, I unplugged the pressure sender and ran the engine and the light just stayed on and beeped at me. I read somewhere that this could mean a bad ground? anything????
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Mar 4, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #35  
From an 03 Bentley Service manual

•Gasoline Engines (99-03 1.8T, 2.0L, and 2.8L VR6)

•at idle........minimum 2.0 bar (29 psi)
•at 2,000 rpm
•1.8L.......2.7 to 4.5 bar (39 to 66psi)
•2.0L.......3.0 to 4.5 bar (44 to 66psi)
•2.8L (code: AFP)......above 2.0 b ar (29 psi)
•2.8L (code: BDF)......above 3.0 bar (44 psi)
•maximum..........7.0 bar (103 psi)

•Diesel Engine

•at idle........no factory specification available
•at 2,000 rpm....minimum 2.5 bar (29 psi)
•maximum..........7.0 bar (103 psi)
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Mar 5, 2011 | 12:40 AM
  #36  
Thanks for that. Though I did call my dealer and they said 20 psi for idle is just fine (idling at 800 rpms) and it shouldn't make my light come on. Anyways, I got a brand new oil cooler on the way, going to change that bad boy out. It's only a $75 fix for me from autohausaz.com
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Mar 5, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #37  
I retook some readings, this time after letting my car warm up a little better, as I was advised.

idle: 15psi
2000: 30psi
4000: 60psi

The light normally comes on right around 2000 rpms.
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Mar 6, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #38  
So it comes on at 2000 RPM with the RPMs decreasing? Sounds like the pressure switch is set for the 29 psi that the manual calls for as a minimum. How thick is your oil? maybe try moving up a couple of Viscocity numbers, ie from 0- something to 10-something.
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Mar 6, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #39  
Thats really not good news, the pressure is just blow spec. Have you tried changing the sender already? Thicker oil might help if there is a clearance problem, which given the readings looks like it may be the problem. Try running 40 weight and see what the numbers change to.
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Mar 6, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #40  
Quote: So it comes on at 2000 RPM with the RPMs decreasing? Sounds like the pressure switch is set for the 29 psi that the manual calls for as a minimum. How thick is your oil? maybe try moving up a couple of Viscocity numbers, ie from 0- something to 10-something.
It mostly comes on increasing through 2000 rpms. And it only comes on after about 10 minutes of driving. Then it comes on only a couple of times. Never at high rpms, or idle.

I am currently running mobil 1 0w-40. The "european formula". What should I switch to?
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