okay to put stop leak in...
it comes to using stop leak fluid mixed with CHF11 (green stuff) mineral hydraulic fluid.
- A reputable rebuilt rack will run from $400-$900 + a core charge. Depending on the Audi Labor is $700 - $1,500 ($700 for any non turbo, around $1,500 max for a 2.7T or anything with turbo connections blocking components of the rack) So were talking $1,100.00 - $2,400.00 to replace that.
-A lifetime warranty reman A1 Cardone P/S pump is $100 after you trade the core in. If you can put your front end (lock carrier) into service position, changing the pump is easy. The warranty replacement is obviously free of charge, you just need new crush washers.
BTW replacing a steering rack is a HUGE PITA. I'd rather destroy and replace 5 P/S pumps than replace a rack.
If your steering rack is already leaking and will one day need to be removed and replaced, then ask yourself this, what do I have to loose? Destroying something that's already destroyed?
When you DO end up having the rack replaced its best to replace the P/S pump as well and a system flush is in line as well.
So what exactly do you have to loose by trying it out? Lucas P/S stop lead & Bars stop leak are compatible with ALL types of P/S fluid. How do I know this? I sent an e-mail to both companies & asked.
I also used Lucas stop leak in an attempt to make my rack last longer 5 months ago, steering whine & noise is gone, haven't lost a drop of fluid since & all is well. When all the "seals are eaten up and I've destroyed all" I'll take care of it.
If you find yourself in a driving position where you have the wheel at full lock @ 4,000 rpm's all the time this might not be your best interest. But who does? ( DOUGHNUTS!!!!!)
- A reputable rebuilt rack will run from $400-$900 + a core charge. Depending on the Audi Labor is $700 - $1,500 ($700 for any non turbo, around $1,500 max for a 2.7T or anything with turbo connections blocking components of the rack) So were talking $1,100.00 - $2,400.00 to replace that.
-A lifetime warranty reman A1 Cardone P/S pump is $100 after you trade the core in. If you can put your front end (lock carrier) into service position, changing the pump is easy. The warranty replacement is obviously free of charge, you just need new crush washers.
BTW replacing a steering rack is a HUGE PITA. I'd rather destroy and replace 5 P/S pumps than replace a rack.
If your steering rack is already leaking and will one day need to be removed and replaced, then ask yourself this, what do I have to loose? Destroying something that's already destroyed?
When you DO end up having the rack replaced its best to replace the P/S pump as well and a system flush is in line as well.
So what exactly do you have to loose by trying it out? Lucas P/S stop lead & Bars stop leak are compatible with ALL types of P/S fluid. How do I know this? I sent an e-mail to both companies & asked.
I also used Lucas stop leak in an attempt to make my rack last longer 5 months ago, steering whine & noise is gone, haven't lost a drop of fluid since & all is well. When all the "seals are eaten up and I've destroyed all" I'll take care of it.
If you find yourself in a driving position where you have the wheel at full lock @ 4,000 rpm's all the time this might not be your best interest. But who does? ( DOUGHNUTS!!!!!)
But, I thought my car parts were hand crafted by the auto gods themselves, each piece lovingly assembled with the careful, nimble hands of virgins, and once complete, the whole car was blessed by druids to keep away evil spirits.
In fact, my car is not a car, but rather a mechnical and engineering work of perfection, cleaverly designed as a car.
At least, that's what I was told when I bought the car... ahem... work of perfection...
In fact, my car is not a car, but rather a mechnical and engineering work of perfection, cleaverly designed as a car.
At least, that's what I was told when I bought the car... ahem... work of perfection...
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