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Questions before getting fleeced at the Shop

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  #1  
Old 10-06-2012, 12:44 AM
hiway006's Avatar
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Default Questions before getting fleeced at the Shop

Hi Folks,
First off, I have no tech prowess, I usually get my Audi Service at German Shops here in the Seattle area. I have a 2001 A4 Quattro 1.8T. 140K miles, do not know if alternator was ever replaced, does not look like it but what do I know? I'm the second owner.

Today, my wife and I went to do our weekly shopping and everything was fine until we got into the car at our last stop. When I started the car, the battery indicator came on. As we were driving I watched the volt meter go from 12 to 10 to 8, back up a little, then back down to 8. Then, we stalled out! Called AAA and was towed home(no shops will be open on weekends).

Then, I got on this forum and searched for similar problems and noticed that there were a few. Here are my questions before I go to the shop on Monday and give them my wallet.

1. Do I first inspect my fuse for the alternator and does the owners manual tell you where it is?

2. Is the only way to check if the alternator tensioner is faulty and needs to replaced is by a tech?

3. I started looking at new alternators online and I noticed that there is usually no core charge, but the non-online parts places do. Do shops get to recoup the core charge, and if so will they tell me there is one?

4.The alternator is considered loaded on the front correct, I've I'd it and that's what it looks like to me.

5. When looking online, what Alternator part number do I look for and can I assume that it's 120amp? Below are what I saw online:

Manufacturer Part Number: ALT13951
Interchange Part Number: 06B-903-016F 038-903-018F LRA01969
Other Part Number: 0-124-515-034 0-124-515-058

6. I can assume that tensioners and belts do not have core charges, correct?

7. When an alternator is replaced what other parts should I get, or be aware of.

8. 2 Weeks ago I got an pre-trip inspection on the car, and everything was clear, could the shop have seen a problem?

Thanks, and sorry for the barrage of questions, I'm unemployed and trying to save as much as I can, I look forward to your replies!
 
  #2  
Old 10-06-2012, 02:23 AM
Subarashī Kao's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 262
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Originally Posted by hiway006
Hi Folks,
First off, I have no tech prowess, I usually get my Audi Service at German Shops here in the Seattle area. I have a 2001 A4 Quattro 1.8T. 140K miles, do not know if alternator was ever replaced, does not look like it but what do I know? I'm the second owner.

Today, my wife and I went to do our weekly shopping and everything was fine until we got into the car at our last stop. When I started the car, the battery indicator came on. As we were driving I watched the volt meter go from 12 to 10 to 8, back up a little, then back down to 8. Then, we stalled out! Called AAA and was towed home(no shops will be open on weekends).

Then, I got on this forum and searched for similar problems and noticed that there were a few. Here are my questions before I go to the shop on Monday and give them my wallet.

1. Do I first inspect my fuse for the alternator and does the owners manual tell you where it is?

2. Is the only way to check if the alternator tensioner is faulty and needs to replaced is by a tech?

3. I started looking at new alternators online and I noticed that there is usually no core charge, but the non-online parts places do. Do shops get to recoup the core charge, and if so will they tell me there is one?

4.The alternator is considered loaded on the front correct, I've I'd it and that's what it looks like to me.

5. When looking online, what Alternator part number do I look for and can I assume that it's 120amp? Below are what I saw online:

Manufacturer Part Number: ALT13951
Interchange Part Number: 06B-903-016F 038-903-018F LRA01969
Other Part Number: 0-124-515-034 0-124-515-058

6. I can assume that tensioners and belts do not have core charges, correct?

7. When an alternator is replaced what other parts should I get, or be aware of.

8. 2 Weeks ago I got an pre-trip inspection on the car, and everything was clear, could the shop have seen a problem?

Thanks, and sorry for the barrage of questions, I'm unemployed and trying to save as much as I can, I look forward to your replies!
check it out what you want to do is this really simple turn on the car if you can jump start it what ever just get it on, then when its on take the positive off the battery .. if the car turns off your alternator is not charging its dead it needs a new one or used what ever you want to get, now if the car stays on after you unplug it then you got a another problem that has nothing to do with the alternator . try it i used this easy steps to get things done quick and has never fail and then check if the belt is spinning the alternator

NOTE: when you unplug the positive of the car if it does not turn of place it back in the battery quick don't leave it off to long other than that you should be fine easy test.

Also you can grab/borrow/rent etc a voltmeter and place the grown to the grown and the red tip to the positive of the battery and then give the car gas rev it the numbers should go up and down (while the car is running duh) if they don't then again alternator is dead.

if car does not turn on period with jump start,another battery etc etc then check main fuse relays etc etc.

thats all i got try it lol or wait for more ppl to reply.
 
  #3  
Old 10-06-2012, 10:27 AM
mtroxel's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,272
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No offense Subarash, but I think that method is a little risky for the car. Disconnecting the battery cables can send voltage surges through the alternator and the rest of the car.

Just do this hiway006, put a meter across the + and - posts on the battery when the car isn't running. You should see about 12.2 volts. Then start the car, the voltage should be about 14.2. if your running voltage isn't about 2 volts higher than your battery voltage, you have a charging system problem. Might be the alternator, might be something in the wiring.

Don't worry about core charges with a shop. Any core charge they pay when they but the part, they get it back when the return the core. It's a wash.
 
  #4  
Old 10-07-2012, 04:24 AM
Subarashī Kao's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 262
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Originally Posted by mtroxel
No offense Subarash, but I think that method is a little risky for the car. Disconnecting the battery cables can send voltage surges through the alternator and the rest of the car.

Just do this hiway006, put a meter across the + and - posts on the battery when the car isn't running. You should see about 12.2 volts. Then start the car, the voltage should be about 14.2. if your running voltage isn't about 2 volts higher than your battery voltage, you have a charging system problem. Might be the alternator, might be something in the wiring.

Don't worry about core charges with a shop. Any core charge they pay when they but the part, they get it back when the return the core. It's a wash.
none taken lol it works must be rapid but works specially if you gots no tools
 

Last edited by Subarashī Kao; 10-07-2012 at 04:28 AM.
  #5  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:54 PM
John_E's Avatar
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Location: Encinitas CA
Posts: 212
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I concur w/ mtroxel -- never run the electrical system w/ the battery disconnected. The simple voltage test should provide the information you need -- idle the engine and see what happens when you turn on headlights and other electrical accessories, and watch the gauge for variations. You may just have a bad battery -- they seem to last only a couple of years these days.
 
  #6  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:58 PM
Subarashī Kao's Avatar
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Originally Posted by John_E
I concur w/ mtroxel -- never run the electrical system w/ the battery disconnected. The simple voltage test should provide the information you need -- idle the engine and see what happens when you turn on headlights and other electrical accessories, and watch the gauge for variations. You may just have a bad battery -- they seem to last only a couple of years these days.
o come on guys you know what i mean you just unplug it quick like up down like less than a sec its harmless that way i done this for years and years but yea i agree if you run it straight out with out it the alternator burns out, but you both know thats not what i was telling him to do.
 
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