Anybody have any tips on performing the swap? thanks

 

Be ready to catch the fluid. Make sure to have extra Dot4 fluid available. Bleed your brakes (I did passenger front, then driver front when I switched to SS brake hoses in the front). You should be good to go at that point. It's a very simple procedure.

 

whats the point of doing this if your not leaking fluid than why switch?

 

The SS lines won't expand under the pressure of the braking system as much as the stock lines will, supposedly increasing braking performance/pedal feel.

 

My stock lines didn't look too healthy (and I live in CA...), and I figured that they would be a reasonable upgrade to perform at the same time as switching to A8 rotors/TT caliper brackets. Can't say I've regretted my decision

 

I would've done the same.

 

I was told that since we only have single piston calipers, the SS lines won't help all that much. That said, I'm a big fan of trading up when it comes time to replace stuff, so I approve

 

i finished the front last night.... so my car now has A8 brakes on the front and SS lines. had to stop though because i stripped a carrier bolt on the rear.

also, when i got the carrier off on the rear the rotor did not come free... what else do i have to do to remove the rear rotor? (fwd)

I have the car up with all wheels off the ground... My logic is to replace all the lines, rotors etc. front and rear and then bleed the system starting from the rear once everything is done. is there anything wrong with doing it this way rather than bleeding each wheel as i finish it one at a time?

thanks

 

what a PITA.... stripped the carrier bolt had to drive to audi in downtown LA to get a new one only to find out my car has the older style hub with the wheel bearing pressed into the rotor. also found that i had to reuse the abs ring, pressed it onto the new rotor myself (sucked) got new bearings and had them pressed at pepboys. got to changing the rear lines and stopped cause it got late... continue tomorrow.

anybody know the easiest way to remove the banjo bolt on the rear?

 

Your car does not have the "older style" hub... All B5 FWD models have the bearings in the rotor, where the rotor acts as the wheel hub. Re-using the ABS ring on the rear rotors is typical in my experience, at least considering that I did the same. Also, when I did my new rear rotors I just used a large slotted screwdriver and a hammer to "press" on the new bearing outer races

As for bleeding, you should be able to bleed just one corner at a time as you finish, starting with the rear. They say you should go from furthest to closest (to the fluid reservoir), so it would be passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front.

Which banjo bolt are you referring to?