What else should I do during a timing belt job?
What else should I do during a timing belt job?
What up everyone, I'm doing my second timing belt change next weekend and was wondering what else I should change while I'm in there.
Also, I've found that my turbo is leaking oil pretty bad onto the hose that runs down toward the belly pan... safe to say I probably need a new turbo right? If the whole unit needs to be replaced should I upgrade? I should also add that on the fwy if I punch it there's a lot of surging, like the turbo is slipping (don't know how else to describe it)
Also, is there a way to check the cam chain tensioner? I have a feeling it needs to be replaced so I'm thinking about doing it all at the same time.
lastly, would this be the best time to change the motor mounts or can I cant to them the same as if I didn't have everything apart for the timing belt job.
thanks every one and ill post some pics tomorrow
Also, I've found that my turbo is leaking oil pretty bad onto the hose that runs down toward the belly pan... safe to say I probably need a new turbo right? If the whole unit needs to be replaced should I upgrade? I should also add that on the fwy if I punch it there's a lot of surging, like the turbo is slipping (don't know how else to describe it)
Also, is there a way to check the cam chain tensioner? I have a feeling it needs to be replaced so I'm thinking about doing it all at the same time.
lastly, would this be the best time to change the motor mounts or can I cant to them the same as if I didn't have everything apart for the timing belt job.
thanks every one and ill post some pics tomorrow
Last edited by Boober; Jun 19, 2012 at 04:47 AM.
Just saw this, disregard my PM.
It sounds to me like you've got a bunch of different **** going on. The oil leak you're describing could just be a loose banjo bolt on the oil drain line coming out of the turbo. Usually when a turbo has blown shaft seals, the oil leaks into the intake and/or the exhaust creating white smoke or filling the charge pipes with oil. If none of the oil is leaking into your TIP, exhaust, or any of the charge pipes I don't think you need to replace the turbo. A pic would be helpful here.
The surging you're describing could be a couple of different things. Do you have a boost gauge? It could be a misfire or your clutch slipping.
The cam chain tensioner will make a lot of racket at idle. If you're not hearing any clicking, tapping, or rattling at idle I'd say you're fine. If you're having a hard time pinpointing the noise, you could use an automotive stethoscope or go old school with it and stick your ear on the end of a screwdriver. If you're going to replace the cam chain tensioner, make sure you also pick up a new valve cover gasket and half-moon seal for the back of the cylinder head.
You don't NEED to take the whole front of the car off to do motor mounts, but if you're already ***** deep in your car to do the timing belt it couldn't hurt to do the mounts. If you'd rather not add another thing to your list when doing the timing belt, the mounts can be done separately. If you haven't already, I would definitely do the snub mount while you're in there for the timing service though, as you have to remove it anyway as part of the tear down.
It sounds to me like you've got a bunch of different **** going on. The oil leak you're describing could just be a loose banjo bolt on the oil drain line coming out of the turbo. Usually when a turbo has blown shaft seals, the oil leaks into the intake and/or the exhaust creating white smoke or filling the charge pipes with oil. If none of the oil is leaking into your TIP, exhaust, or any of the charge pipes I don't think you need to replace the turbo. A pic would be helpful here.
The surging you're describing could be a couple of different things. Do you have a boost gauge? It could be a misfire or your clutch slipping.
The cam chain tensioner will make a lot of racket at idle. If you're not hearing any clicking, tapping, or rattling at idle I'd say you're fine. If you're having a hard time pinpointing the noise, you could use an automotive stethoscope or go old school with it and stick your ear on the end of a screwdriver. If you're going to replace the cam chain tensioner, make sure you also pick up a new valve cover gasket and half-moon seal for the back of the cylinder head.
You don't NEED to take the whole front of the car off to do motor mounts, but if you're already ***** deep in your car to do the timing belt it couldn't hurt to do the mounts. If you'd rather not add another thing to your list when doing the timing belt, the mounts can be done separately. If you haven't already, I would definitely do the snub mount while you're in there for the timing service though, as you have to remove it anyway as part of the tear down.
Just saw this, disregard my PM.
It sounds to me like you've got a bunch of different **** going on. The oil leak you're describing could just be a loose banjo bolt on the oil drain line coming out of the turbo. Usually when a turbo has blown shaft seals, the oil leaks into the intake and/or the exhaust creating white smoke or filling the charge pipes with oil. If none of the oil is leaking into your TIP, exhaust, or any of the charge pipes I don't think you need to replace the turbo. A pic would be helpful here.
It sounds to me like you've got a bunch of different **** going on. The oil leak you're describing could just be a loose banjo bolt on the oil drain line coming out of the turbo. Usually when a turbo has blown shaft seals, the oil leaks into the intake and/or the exhaust creating white smoke or filling the charge pipes with oil. If none of the oil is leaking into your TIP, exhaust, or any of the charge pipes I don't think you need to replace the turbo. A pic would be helpful here.
The cam chain tensioner will make a lot of racket at idle. If you're not hearing any clicking, tapping, or rattling at idle I'd say you're fine. If you're having a hard time pinpointing the noise, you could use an automotive stethoscope or go old school with it and stick your ear on the end of a screwdriver. If you're going to replace the cam chain tensioner, make sure you also pick up a new valve cover gasket and half-moon seal for the back of the cylinder head.
You don't NEED to take the whole front of the car off to do motor mounts, but if you're already ***** deep in your car to do the timing belt it couldn't hurt to do the mounts. If you'd rather not add another thing to your list when doing the timing belt, the mounts can be done separately. If you haven't already, I would definitely do the snub mount while you're in there for the timing service though, as you have to remove it anyway as part of the tear down.
Very bad or repeated misfires will throw codes and a CEL, but mild/occasional ones may not. The reason I asked about a boost gauge is that if it was a misfire, you'd be able to see the needle on the boost gauge fluctuating if it was a misfire. If it was just your clutch, the boost gauge wouldn't do that.
The DV would only be causing problems if you had a spring in it that was way too stiff for your application. What color spring are you running in it?
There are three motor mounts and another half-dozen or so between your transmission and differentials. The snub mount is basically a rubber donut at the front of your motor. Its job is to prevent/reduce the amount of drive train slop by preventing the motor from moving forward when you get off the gas to shift or slow down. The other two are motor mounts in the more traditional sense in that they attac the motor to the subframe. They're filled with hydraulic oil, so when they go bad they tend to leak that oil in the form of pink goo that turns into a pinkish/white crust when it dries. I know for a fact there are snub mount DIY's out there, but when you get the front of the car torn down for the timing service it will become obvious where this mount goes and what it does. As for a replacement, an OEM snub mount is like $4, but for $20 you can have a polyurethane replacement from Stern that will perform better and last longer. APR and 034 mounts are also good, but they're well known to increase the amount of vibration and noise in the cabin, whereas the Stern piece does not do that.
The DV would only be causing problems if you had a spring in it that was way too stiff for your application. What color spring are you running in it?
There are three motor mounts and another half-dozen or so between your transmission and differentials. The snub mount is basically a rubber donut at the front of your motor. Its job is to prevent/reduce the amount of drive train slop by preventing the motor from moving forward when you get off the gas to shift or slow down. The other two are motor mounts in the more traditional sense in that they attac the motor to the subframe. They're filled with hydraulic oil, so when they go bad they tend to leak that oil in the form of pink goo that turns into a pinkish/white crust when it dries. I know for a fact there are snub mount DIY's out there, but when you get the front of the car torn down for the timing service it will become obvious where this mount goes and what it does. As for a replacement, an OEM snub mount is like $4, but for $20 you can have a polyurethane replacement from Stern that will perform better and last longer. APR and 034 mounts are also good, but they're well known to increase the amount of vibration and noise in the cabin, whereas the Stern piece does not do that.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,973
From: Costa Mesa, SoCal
Don't have a boost guage, and I should install one soon though. I scanned the computer last night and had no fault codes other than the airbag light which is fixed now... It would throw a code for misfire wouldn't it? I don't think its the clutch cause it only happens on the fwy when I'm at 60+ mph and the engine losses power, cuts in and out quickly. Also, I have a R1 diverter valve and I never changed to a N75 valve cause I had been reading mixed reviews, could that be the cause of the problem?
The boost gauge showed that the surging was also consistent with the air pressure coming out of the turbo. I think it would oscillate between 10-16 psi.
I have two guesses on this behavior: 1) The IAT was high enough to cause the ECU to reduce the timing and/or load on the engine to prevent pre-detonation. 2) The turbine simply couldn't sustain the necessary power required by the compressor based on the available exhaust gases. Or it could have been a combination.
here are some pics
@Metalman, I think what you're describing is what is going on. Its definitely not misfiring and its 100% not the clutch. It feels like the boost pressure is being dumped on and off about once per second while the pedal is held.
@CCA4, I have the APR R1 diverter valve and from what I remember it only comes with one spring and isn't adjustable. From what I saw (you can see them in the pics) the motor mounts look ok, maybe the slop I've been feeling is the snub, I have a new one that I bought about a year ago and never installed it. It will definitely go in when I do the timing belt job.
Does gates make a belt for the ATW? And has anybody had any experience with these Audi B5 A4 FWD 1.8T > Engine > Timing > Chain Tensioner > ES#1891981 Cam Chain Tensioner Assembly - 058109217B
Seems like it's too cheap compared to the other two they offer. But if it works I'll go for it.
@Metalman, I think what you're describing is what is going on. Its definitely not misfiring and its 100% not the clutch. It feels like the boost pressure is being dumped on and off about once per second while the pedal is held.
@CCA4, I have the APR R1 diverter valve and from what I remember it only comes with one spring and isn't adjustable. From what I saw (you can see them in the pics) the motor mounts look ok, maybe the slop I've been feeling is the snub, I have a new one that I bought about a year ago and never installed it. It will definitely go in when I do the timing belt job.
Does gates make a belt for the ATW? And has anybody had any experience with these Audi B5 A4 FWD 1.8T > Engine > Timing > Chain Tensioner > ES#1891981 Cam Chain Tensioner Assembly - 058109217B
Seems like it's too cheap compared to the other two they offer. But if it works I'll go for it.
Last edited by Boober; Jun 19, 2012 at 08:42 PM.
these are all taken from the front of the car looking back, the first 3 are the oil leak/diverter valve/passenger side. the next two are of the drivers side, some oil and the motor mount. and the last one is the oil covered trans cover.