Low compression, New Head, need turbo, what next
All:
Thanks in advance for your help/patience. I have a 2003 audi a4 1.8t quattro, 85,000 miles, that is blowing smoke when cold (lots of smoke) and also using oil. I just had a new cylinder head installed within the last 5000 miles. A few questions:
1) I did a compression test and found, front to back, 140, 140, 140, 120, all in psi. This is in denver so the numbers will be lower, but these seem pretty low. The plug for the low compression looked like all the others...........a pretty dark brown (but not black). So, this leads to, is it rings or valves, and is this related to smoke and oil consumption. Is there any faint hope that I fix my oil problem (probably a bad turbo), will the cylinders clean themselves up a bit and come up a bit, or is that just a pipe dream.
2) when I had the head put on, I opted for the OEM head at ~$2200 for the head alone. I have come to not trust the shop that did this..........is there an easy way to identify the OEM head versus a cheaper copy. The place where the engine code is typically stamped has a very poorly executed stamped number (and not an engine code).
3) if you still have patience, I am virtually certain that the turbo is shot and have found a smokin deal for a new Borg Warner one for ~$500. However, if the car is on its death throes, I don't really want to put it in. Any sage advice on this one.
4) if you really still have patience, how hard is it to rebuild the bottom end of these engines. I have reasonable skills but limited patience.......again, thoughts on this one.
Thanks for all of your thoughts.
Thanks in advance for your help/patience. I have a 2003 audi a4 1.8t quattro, 85,000 miles, that is blowing smoke when cold (lots of smoke) and also using oil. I just had a new cylinder head installed within the last 5000 miles. A few questions:
1) I did a compression test and found, front to back, 140, 140, 140, 120, all in psi. This is in denver so the numbers will be lower, but these seem pretty low. The plug for the low compression looked like all the others...........a pretty dark brown (but not black). So, this leads to, is it rings or valves, and is this related to smoke and oil consumption. Is there any faint hope that I fix my oil problem (probably a bad turbo), will the cylinders clean themselves up a bit and come up a bit, or is that just a pipe dream.
2) when I had the head put on, I opted for the OEM head at ~$2200 for the head alone. I have come to not trust the shop that did this..........is there an easy way to identify the OEM head versus a cheaper copy. The place where the engine code is typically stamped has a very poorly executed stamped number (and not an engine code).
3) if you still have patience, I am virtually certain that the turbo is shot and have found a smokin deal for a new Borg Warner one for ~$500. However, if the car is on its death throes, I don't really want to put it in. Any sage advice on this one.
4) if you really still have patience, how hard is it to rebuild the bottom end of these engines. I have reasonable skills but limited patience.......again, thoughts on this one.
Thanks for all of your thoughts.
Last edited by tpaudi; Oct 16, 2011 at 04:47 PM. Reason: bad typing
Ok: Bit the bullet and put a new stock borg Warner turbo on it. With turbo out, it did not seem to have too much shaft play, BUT, intercooler was filled with oil AND coolant (making a messy mix). I am guessing that the seals were shot and coolant/oil was being fed into both intake and exhaust.
NEXT PROBLEM:
There is a lot of valve train noise AND there are very fine particles in the oil (haven't figured out yet what the particles are). SO, my questions come to:
1) This car is supposed to have a Brand NEw OEM head and valves on it within the last 5000 miles[B]................is there a way to tell if the head is truly an OEM head? I have a warranty on the head and installation and intend to take it back since the valve train noise is out of control. Thoughts on "managing" this conversation with the shop would be appreciated.
2) The particles in the oil. One source would be the turbo tearing itself to pieces and sending particles back into the oil sump via the oil return line. A bad thought is something else: bearing, rings, OR since valve train noise is so bad, something in the head like cam, lifter, or cam bearing. Thoughts on how to diagnose without just taking it apart would be appreciated.
thanks again
NEXT PROBLEM:
There is a lot of valve train noise AND there are very fine particles in the oil (haven't figured out yet what the particles are). SO, my questions come to:
1) This car is supposed to have a Brand NEw OEM head and valves on it within the last 5000 miles[B]................is there a way to tell if the head is truly an OEM head? I have a warranty on the head and installation and intend to take it back since the valve train noise is out of control. Thoughts on "managing" this conversation with the shop would be appreciated.
2) The particles in the oil. One source would be the turbo tearing itself to pieces and sending particles back into the oil sump via the oil return line. A bad thought is something else: bearing, rings, OR since valve train noise is so bad, something in the head like cam, lifter, or cam bearing. Thoughts on how to diagnose without just taking it apart would be appreciated.
thanks again
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