at what mileage do u guys recommend to have the throttle body system cleaned out????..here at work the guys have the BG product version of it and it all shoots out through the exhaust

 

Its not like it is going to hurt it. I put seafoam in crankcase, gas tank, & throttle body, and there was a noticible difference. I did it with about 94k..

 

Seafoam?

 

Its a cleaning substance for you car that cleans fuel injectors, eliminates oil sludge, cleans carbon & cleans carbon buildup..Go to Advanced Auto Parts/Auto zone or an auto store and ask them about it and they will tell you more.. Its really easy to do.

 

keep in mind all that carbon, sludge, whatever, has to go somewhere. and that somewhere is in your cat. conv. Contamination is the #1 reason for cat failure.

just like slick 50, more often than not this stuff is made to sell, not to solve problems.

 

Of all the snake oils, from my 35yrs experience, seafoam works as advertised. Just don't go over board and use as recommended. I can't remember how many gummed up hyraulic lifters it cured. What really got me convinced was a jerky rack and pinion sector on a 83' Olds Cierra. I was told by GM dealer it was gonna require a rebuilt at the tune of $650 for the unit and not the labor. Was gonna get one and do it myself. Went to the parts store and the man behind the counter said put a cup of seafoam in the PS pump and drive it and see what happens. It cost about $2.95 then. Good advise, saved lots of coin.
So I buy an '03 A4 1.8T Q and I go to these forums and see all the problems with oil sludge........either I take the chance nothing and hope the little oil lite doesn't ever come on, or every oil change stick in a can of seafoam drive about 50 miles and then change oil on a 5k interval. If it wasn't such a fun car to drive I would prolly think about something else.
As far as cat failures go, it is my understanding the quickest thing to ruin a cat is anything that has silicone in it, ie spray lubes etc. I thought I once read that it cankilla cat almost in an instant. I will see if I can find more about that.

 

just an FYI here, putting in the intake is one thing, but inside the motor oil is a real no no. Why? because of whats in it.

rubbing alcohol - how will this benefit your motor? thinning the oil out?
naptha - another good way to kill your lubrication and cause excessive wear
pale oil - might as well run api 30w with no detergent, this stuff is maybe good for lubricating bolt threads. this is what causes the smoke out of the exhaust when using it in the intake. so i guess cars that burn oil dont have much carbon buildup.

I just cant come up with any valid fact based reasoning why adding this stuff to crankcase oil would provide any benefits. unless youre trying to kill bearings and cylinder walls.

a good synthetic has all the detergents a motor needs to run clean.

 

I quess I would have to see the data sheet. I'll see if we have a MSDS here and find out for sure what in the stuff.I think it has to list all ingredients. Just not the quantities. Like I said if used according to the instructions on the label it will be fine or they would still not be in business.

 

only a google search away
http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf

1 PALE OIL 4229 40-60%
2 NAPHTHA 20 25-35%
3 IPA 125 10-20%

if you put these solvents in your motor, they are not coming out. they will compromise your engine oils ability to lubricate for a long time. the only way to get the contamination out would be to disassemble the motor and hot tank it.

I feel sympathy for ignorant people who choose not to do research and use the placebo effect to decide that placing a solvent in motor oil is somehow beneficial.

now look at the used to be popular additive claiming the same things
http://www.imperialinc.com/msds0076050.shtml

and another
http://www.myerstiresupply.com/MSDS/...otor_Flush.pdf

and another
http://www.gunk.com/msds/MF2.pdf


its all the same crap. yes it can help dislodge sludge, at the expense of lubrication. but if you actually have a sludge problem, removing it is not addressing the root cause. honestly you might as well just pour some 87 octane in your motor oil, youll get the same result for cheaper.

now as far as putting it in the intake, i doubt it would clean out carbon better than 100% throttle on an open road for 30 or so seconds. how is burning oil and solvent going to magically remove carbon from intake valves? you might was well spray some good 91 octane in your intake manifold, because gas has detergents that are designed to remove carbon when burned, unlike lighter fluid and low quality pale oil in seafoam. but you are constantly burning gas while driving, so what is the point.

some older but valid info on other additives
www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.shtml+http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1& gl=us]http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cache:dK5h00YD26cJ:www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.shtml+http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=1& gl=us
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Yep just dug out the MSDS. You have the quantities correct. Pale oil, which I would guess is a very lite oil. Naptha....they use that to clean your suit when you take it to the dry cleaners and IPA which is Isopropal Alcohol, not sure isn't that rubbing alcohol??, . I guess I haven't ruined a motor yet nor did ruin a rack and pinion on the Olds. I drove that car untill it had 160k. I use it once a year in a '95 Pontiac BVille with a 3.8, in the tank and crankcase ,it has 140k and I stilldrive it daily. Ignorant.....maybe. Ialso know the little carthat I ownhas a sludge problem plugging upthe oil pick up. Am I going to going totry and avoid this problem or don't think about it and hope it goes away, or trade? I read too many times of this sludge problem on these forums.Would I rather wipe my bearings out with seafoam or a lack of oil period?Now Slick 50 that is snake oil........