start up issue
After my stock car battery taking a crap on me Monday morning (car battery being 4 years old), and replacing it with a new battery of the correct type later that night, my car has a hard time turning over now. The first time i started her up right after the battery was replaced, it was slow and weak to turn over, but started up after 2 chugs. I drove it around and turned the car off and started it up again, it being faster and more of a normal start up.
This morning, though, when i started it up it was slow and weak, again, and after being driven and then restarted it was faster to turn over.
What's going on? Shouldn't a car start up quickly upon getting a new battery?? Is my starter broken?
Also, another problem that has stemmed from this is that the buttons on my key don't work anymore (the wireless lock, unlock, panic, and trunk open). Any advice?
This morning, though, when i started it up it was slow and weak, again, and after being driven and then restarted it was faster to turn over.
What's going on? Shouldn't a car start up quickly upon getting a new battery?? Is my starter broken?

Also, another problem that has stemmed from this is that the buttons on my key don't work anymore (the wireless lock, unlock, panic, and trunk open). Any advice?
When you change the battery you have to re-program the fob key.
In order to re-program the fob key:
Insert the fob key into the ignition while holding the unlock button and turn the ignition on. Turn off the ignition and test the fob key, it should function properly. (I think this is what I did to re-program my key after replacing the battery. Also some places will say you need a second key but I didn't need the second key.)
In order to re-program the fob key:
Insert the fob key into the ignition while holding the unlock button and turn the ignition on. Turn off the ignition and test the fob key, it should function properly. (I think this is what I did to re-program my key after replacing the battery. Also some places will say you need a second key but I didn't need the second key.)
Last edited by Peoples-2; Oct 21, 2008 at 10:37 PM.
Well two reasons your car is going to turn-over faster once you've been running it is because #1 The engine is warm and oil has circulated so there is less friction for the starter motor to overcome and #2 Your battery was just sucking on 13-18volts of the charging system. Its impossible to tell whether a battery is in good condition (i.e. able to maintain its charge) By simply checking the voltage. All a voltage measurement tells you is that there is potential between the electrodes. You cannot determine whether or not the battery is good based on a voltage test alone. You need to load test the battery and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Or you could take it to most auto-parts stores and they will test (properly) the battery for you. Doesn't sound like it wants to hold a charge. However, because you say you replaced the battery already I would also check the conditions of your cable ends. If you have a multimeter, with the car off key out of the ignition check to see if there is a load on the electrical system. Sounds to me like your charging system is at least operating but that after running the car and charging the battery you then lose the charge while the car is off. I'm not saying that it's not a bad battery, but there are a couple of other avenues to investigate. Albeit the quickest to eliminate would be to have the battery tested properly.
Last edited by krystallbluea4; Oct 22, 2008 at 07:15 AM.
agreed check your battery they have simple tests are auto stores that just hook up to your battery and tells the condition of the battery. some times just because you buy a new battery doesnt mean it hasnt been sitting at the store for 2 years. its new to you but old to the store. and i know they dont store batteries with trickle chargers on them either
Well, my car didn't start this morning either; it seems there is a drain in the system somewhere unbeknown to me. I decided to take the car in, and the mechanic i talked to said that since i did the HID conversion it may be that the stock alternator can't keep up with the heavy drain that the headlights take now, causing the battery to drain dead (Fix: buy a new, more powerful alternator....$$$$). The only problem with that diagnosis: with the brand new battery i haven't run the headlights at all, so why does it act like the old dead battery did?
My question: Has anyone who has installed HID conversion kits in their car had problems with their alternator and/or those lights draining the battery out over any time interval?
My question: Has anyone who has installed HID conversion kits in their car had problems with their alternator and/or those lights draining the battery out over any time interval?


