I have a 2007 A4 b7 2.0 non-quatro and was interested in going with the APR chip or GIAC upgrade. please post any reviews or oppinions on the APR chip vs GIAC, is the gain realistic? the shop I was speaking with said "HP goes up to 242 from about 205. TQ goes up to 291." with APR.
Also, since my vehicle isn't a quatro, I wonder if it would suffer from front end wheel hop during acceleration. what's an accurate 0-60 time after apr upgrade?

 

I just updated my stickey up top. with:

CHIPS or ECU Flash. There are 4 main companies that are all respectable. APR, REVO, Unitronic, & GIAC in order of popularity. These companies can all offer gains by increasing boost levels electonically and remapping the computer to compensate. Advertised gains are on the 40-50 hp range and even better torqe gains. This is the truth and not bull. The 1st 3 companies offer a stage 1 basic tune and a stage 2 after you add at least a high flowing downpipe or testpipe. My personal favorite is APR because you can switch from Tuned back to stock and lock it in with a code all via the Cruise Control stalk. This will keep dealers out stealthy like or keep the car slower if someone else drives your car. I have used REVO and liked it very well too but you need a special box to plug in to switch programs. GIAC uses an adaptive tune that will notice your car when you add a DP or testpipe instead of a stage 2 tune. GIAC will not get rid of your check engine light like the others do so I do not recommend this company for that reason. There is also a stage 2+ program but a higher flow Fuel pump is required. Remember that an upgraded "D" Diverter valve and the PCV fix should be used when getting a chip. Using a boost gauge will also let you know when these items have failed (and the WILL).



I love my stage 2 plus GTI. Stage 2+ may start affecting your tire spin but I consider a stage 2 tune NEEDED just to get these cars to move out of their own way. The A4 is super heavy and if you have a CVT auto like my wife it is even slower. Get an Ebay Test Pipe and go straight to APR or REVO stage 2. You will not like GIAC as well. Make sure you read my sticky and do the DV and PCV to avoid any problems that the chip may cause.

 

wow, thanks for the great info! sorry I didn't read your stickey first.

 

i have stage 1 now with my a4 b7 2.0 quattro turbo now... what gains do you see in hp/torque going from stage 1 to 2 or 2+? i know what i would need to buy but wanted to know what gains i would see. thx!

 

are you pleased with the stage 1? how noticeable was the improvement?

 

I did not dyno my car but i will say stage 1 to stage 2 by adding a downpipe and stage 2 tune was like it was chipped all over agian. Super noticable. Going stage 2+ requires a fuel pump which can cost $500 to $1000 depending on brand and such. Stage 2+ is like getting chipped again.

I recommend going straight to stage 2 minimum. You will not regret it. You will realize how slow your car really was in the beginning. Make sure you get the PCV and DV upgrade for sure.

 

I had stage 1 Revo on my car for about 2 years. It was great and much more fun to drive than stock. A couple months ago I went to stage 2 Revo and added a HFC downpipe and Stasis exhaust.... I wish I had done it earlier. It is night and day different! But remember if you are doing that make sure you get a DV (Forge Motorsports makes a good one), a PCV fix (I have the one from BSH) and a boost gauge.

But your money can start to fly out the window, so make sure you know what you want to do and how much its going to cost (even more if you get a shop to install it all.) Good Luck

 

Remember aftermarket DV's require taking them apart and servicing them about every 10-15K miles. I recommend the stock "D" DV as it is designed with a piston like the aftermarket but no maintainence is needed. Plus they are only $79 shipped from ECS. Forge and such can be a hassle knowing they need to be cleaned and greased all the time.

BSH for the PCV as well.

 

I looked in the sticky, but didn't see the answer to this: Is there an easy way to tell if you have the "D" DV without pulling it all the way off? Is the part/revision number on it somewhere that's visible?

Chances are I don't have one, but I bought the car used, so before I order one, I want to make sure.

 

We sell Unitronic and have proven dyno gains over competitors. It's really awesome software, and have many happy customers that have switched. Where are you located?