I've been doing a lot of surfing on this forum, and reading a lot of different threads. But I'm finding it challenging to get some definitive answers. I apologize in advance if I'm exceeding forum post size or questions threshold.

The vehicle in question is 2006 A4 B7 2.0T FSI Quattro 6MT. It has recently crossed over 100k miles on the odo. It has had regular maintenance, including the T-Belt and water pump done around 85k miles. I also replaced the diverter valve last week with the new Pierberg piston type. I don't have oil consumption issues, I use synthetic and change it every 7-8k miles, and have never had to add any between oil changes.

PCV - I can't find the BHS kit, and I found various more recent posts suggesting it causes problems. So, what is the latest suggestion from the community? Is there a better, more updated solution, or should I just go get an OEM PCV and just be done with it?

CV Boots - I'm due. Both are torn and I'm starting to hear clicking sounds. So, once again, what is the latest community suggestion - get OEM, aftermarket axles, or rebuilt?

T-Stat - I have a slightly wandering temp gauge (intermittent), and the car threw a P2181 code a couple of weeks ago, which has not returned since resetting. Again, OEM or aftermarket?

Cam Follower - I haven't ever checked it, and never had an issue with it - yet! Should I be worried? I hope to dive in there and check it out, but wondering if there was ever a recall or service campaign on it. Based on common posts on this, it seems miraculous to have lasted 100K without this failing. Am I screwed?

BOV or Diverters - I did the update to the OEM piston model, but I'm a bit confused about the dialog. I thought our engines are MAF equipped, so air intake is metered to gauge fuel mixture. But it seems some owners are going to BOVs or venting to atmosphere, which seems to allow metered air to escape. Doesn't that cause a rich condition if the ECU regulates fuel based on the volume of air the MAF reports as being ingested?

Test Pipes / CEL - I'd like to delete the cat, but I have read test pipes sometimes throw a CEL. Is there a way to deal with that, or is the only option to delete the CEL via chipping? I read somewhere O2 sensor spacers have been used with limited success. Also, there are some reasonably priced turbo-back full SS OBX exhaust kits on eBay, are they a good fit, reliable? Any suggested models/sources here would be welcome.

Chips - I'd like to get one, APR seems like a commonly recommended make. If I get a test pipe should I be looking for stage-2? But not 2+ which apparently requires a fuel-pump upgrade, is that correct? Does it matter if I replace the entire turbo-back or just a test pipe?

Finally, I'm getting better with search, but it seems CAI's are not all that popular here. Is there any thoughts on K&N or other quality drop-in filters? Oiled or paper?

Thank you all in advance. I appreciate all the info I have already gleaned and look forward to participating/contributing where I can.

 

Do the cam follower ASAP.

 

I have a 2006 with 85k miles on it and just had my cam follower and cam looked at last fall because I suspected an issue (I paid for them to pull it). They took photos and they both look fine. For you, it's probalby worth checking, though, because the extended warranty Audi offered only goes up to 10 years/120k miles.

I have the BSH PCV and took it off when I was having some other problems (turned out to be my low pressure fuel pump). The dealership replaced my stock PCV along with some other pieces of the fuel delivery system as part of a different extended warranty campaign and I just haven't put it back on. I never noticed any positives or negatives from it. One good thing--it won't go bad, but I think after a few revisions, Audi's got the stock one fixed now.

Skip the BOV and the CAI. They're a waste of time and money. If you really want to go with a K&N, you can, but I've never bothered (and this is from someone that's put a K&N in every other car he's owned). I think it's a waste of money in this car.

I really want an APR tune, but I'll probably just go Stage 1. I live in a metro area with yearly emissions, so I can't do a test pipe and a HFC is just not what I really want to spend money on right now. I think the Stage 2 allows you to delete the cat, but like I said, I can't do it, so I've not paid a lot of attention to it.

 

A grown man shouldn't have to be told how to keep up his car. You already know the answers to these questions. Your purchases depend on your finances. You're considering tuning your car and you haven't even checked your cam follower or replaced your torn, clicking cv joints? You're asking to be driving a piece of shitt real fast.

 

Or, he's just excited about his new ride and planning for the future. I asked a lot of crazy questions when I'd just gotten my A4 because I wanted to know EVERYTHING. It's the internet, that's what it's here for.

 

Actually, I don't think it is the CV joint, it looks like the bottom control arm. I don't quite know how to describe it, but the rubber boots are shot. I have pictures here:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsk8mgDCQ



What is the part and what can I do to repair this? Is there a part number, and source for the part?

Thank you!

 

My upper arm bushings are pretty shot. You can replace the bushings, but they have to be pressed in. I'm not sure you can replace just the ball joint. With the price of the labor for all that, I plan on just ordering a whole new set of arms complete with bushings from ECSTuning eventually. They have great prices and fast shipping. I'd like to do the entire front end kit.

Audi B7 A4 Quattro 2.0T Suspension Control Arm - ECS Tuning

 

Based on the orientation of that photo it's your drivers side front, lower, straight control arm. Part #8E0407151R. You don't need to get the OE, but don't get the cheapest. Audi's ca's are made by Lemforder and are just as pricey. Febi-Bilstein is acceptable for low cost.

The bushing has no matter in this, it's the ball joint boot that's torn. Would be nice to be able to replace it, but you'd have to be working at the factory.

Use Google search for the procedure. The b6-b7 are the same. You're going to need a ball joint fork. There are separators that remove the ca without damaging the ball joint, but yours is leaking so it won't apply.

Pay attention when you re-torque the arm's bushing side. You want to do this at the proper load height.

All together first time, it'll take you about less than a couple of hours and is highly doable. Just be careful and use jack stands. PM me if you need help.

Also you can buy each arm separately. However at this point your upper bushings are probably going as well if they haven't been swapped.

 

Thank you King!

Thanks Dolamite!

At this point I'm wondering if I should just get a complete control arm kit like what ECS offers? If so, which is the best of the ones they offer? I see from King's post that ECS has several on that page, ranging from $380 to $2200 for OEM.

I don't see any damage to the control arms, so I'm not sure if I need to replace them, or if I can get a bushing kit that would sufficiently rejuvenate them. However, looking at the setup it might be just as economical to replace the whole assembly then disassembling and pressing in/out bushings into each part.

I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable doing this kind of job in my garage without a lift. I'll have to take a look at the DIY. I've done other brake/turbo/Intercooler/Coil-over suspension work before, but always on my hobby car, not on my daily driver.

 

I've been looking at the Meyle HD kit. I have had good luck with their rotors and they seem to be mid-range as far as price. I can't find much in the way of reviews on them, though.