HP needed. Any suggestions?
Agreed with Mike, getting a better high pressure fuel pump and test pipe are steps in the right direction, but a larger turbo (especially with a heavy *** B7) is a necessity in the future to get where you want to be. Remember, you will need additional clutch strength with a larger turbo too, so put that into your budget.
I hope you guys are patient with my questions. I am new to the turbo engines. I used to have 07 g35x sedan before I purchased the A4, and yes I used to be able to smoke that EVO. I just want to make sure that I dont make any more mistakes like the BOV. Does that high pressure fuel pump make a huge difference or is getting rid of the BOV and getting test pipe or HFC just as good. I really hate to spend another $1000 on mods right now. Like what is the difference in hp?
Fix the BOV problem first. Changing the high pressure fuel pump won't do anything by itself, but its a prerequisite to better tuning and or a larger turbo.
So if you want to save money for now, buy the HFC (if you live in emmissions state) and fix the BOV, and wait for the high pressure pump as it won't give you any gain until the tuning/turbo is changed.
So if you want to save money for now, buy the HFC (if you live in emmissions state) and fix the BOV, and wait for the high pressure pump as it won't give you any gain until the tuning/turbo is changed.
Fix the BOV problem first. Changing the high pressure fuel pump won't do anything by itself, but its a prerequisite to better tuning and or a larger turbo.
So if you want to save money for now, buy the HFC (if you live in emmissions state) and fix the BOV, and wait for the high pressure pump as it won't give you any gain until the tuning/turbo is changed.
So if you want to save money for now, buy the HFC (if you live in emmissions state) and fix the BOV, and wait for the high pressure pump as it won't give you any gain until the tuning/turbo is changed.
This is a huge difference to go to stage 2+. Do some homework before giving bad advice.
HUGE GAINS. Trust me as this is the same on GTI's and i'm heavy on the MKV forum.
Be sure to install the exhaust parts on a hot car with lots of PB blaster or good penatrating oil. Cold cars get the nuts contracted and they will not budge. Post up with results. I would check on Vortex or anothr site and buy a used stock pump for 45 OR SO. Then you can send that to APR for the rebuild and no downtime on your car then sell your extra pump to the next guy. That way you spend 600 on the rebuilt at APR instead of 1000 bux.
Good luck and you can always get a FORGE spacer for the DV and get the woosh sound without hurting your car. People get annoyed with them and let them go cheap on MKV all the time. Don't buy a new one as the market is flooded with these.
Sorry dude but i call BS here. Since he is already chipped, all he needs is the test pipe and Fuel pump and they will flash him to Stage 2+ for free or a nominal fee like $50 like my local dealer for the flash fee.
This is a huge difference to go to stage 2+. Do some homework before giving bad advice.
HUGE GAINS. Trust me as this is the same on GTI's and i'm heavy on the MKV forum.
Be sure to install the exhaust parts on a hot car with lots of PB blaster or good penatrating oil. Cold cars get the nuts contracted and they will not budge. Post up with results. I would check on Vortex or anothr site and buy a used stock pump for 45 OR SO. Then you can send that to APR for the rebuild and no downtime on your car then sell your extra pump to the next guy. That way you spend 600 on the rebuilt at APR instead of 1000 bux.
Good luck and you can always get a FORGE spacer for the DV and get the woosh sound without hurting your car. People get annoyed with them and let them go cheap on MKV all the time. Don't buy a new one as the market is flooded with these.
This is a huge difference to go to stage 2+. Do some homework before giving bad advice.
HUGE GAINS. Trust me as this is the same on GTI's and i'm heavy on the MKV forum.
Be sure to install the exhaust parts on a hot car with lots of PB blaster or good penatrating oil. Cold cars get the nuts contracted and they will not budge. Post up with results. I would check on Vortex or anothr site and buy a used stock pump for 45 OR SO. Then you can send that to APR for the rebuild and no downtime on your car then sell your extra pump to the next guy. That way you spend 600 on the rebuilt at APR instead of 1000 bux.
Good luck and you can always get a FORGE spacer for the DV and get the woosh sound without hurting your car. People get annoyed with them and let them go cheap on MKV all the time. Don't buy a new one as the market is flooded with these.
Lets examine some numbers shall we?
APR Stage 2+ on a 2.0T puts out about;
272 Hp and 320 Tq on 93 octane. Watch out! Those are some big numbers!.............
Thats quick, don't get me wrong, but if you remember the poster's actual question, he wants to be on the same playing field of an EVO. Not what YOU think is fast. An A4 with this software would get beat so badly its not even funny. A stock EVO would still leave him because the A4 is a tank compared to the EVO.
Now a GT2871R with tuning could put him around the 400 HP range, and trust me he will need every single horse if he wants to compete.
Edit: I also apologize for my rant, i get worked up sometimes.
Last edited by auditech79; Oct 1, 2009 at 01:39 AM.
Im not real sure he wants a different turbo or if thats in his budjet because he was complaining about spending $1000 on mods anyway. So my suggestion is max performance from a stock turbo. Stage 1 to stage 2+ is a huge gain comparitivly and a pump is needed for that flash. Squeeze out what you can.
The a4 SLED will never be fast and thats why I said earlier to get an S4 if you want power or get a different car.
The a4 SLED will never be fast and thats why I said earlier to get an S4 if you want power or get a different car.
Im not real sure he wants a different turbo or if thats in his budjet because he was complaining about spending $1000 on mods anyway. So my suggestion is max performance from a stock turbo. Stage 1 to stage 2+ is a huge gain comparitivly and a pump is needed for that flash. Squeeze out what you can.
The a4 SLED will never be fast and thats why I said earlier to get an S4 if you want power or get a different car.
The a4 SLED will never be fast and thats why I said earlier to get an S4 if you want power or get a different car.
All I know is that I purchased that "sled" for 12 grand. It had 28000 miles and was originally advertised for 19990 but the dealership was desperate to sell. So after 4 weeks of negotiating and nobody wanting to buy stick they decided to get rid of it. So for 12 grand, I think it's worth it. Even if I have to spend another 6-$7000 to make it as fast as I would like it to be, it will still be under 20 grand. As far as the fuel pump goes, I think some of you guys misunderstood me. I dont mind spending $1000 if I know its worth it. I just want my money spent wisely. Thats probably what I am gona do, test pipe, get rid of the BOV, get the fuel pump and do stage 2+. Oh and by the way, I hope I wont get smoked by a Magnum any more
Hey if you are willing to spend $3600 for a K04 or $5200 for a stage III kit. 318hp or 375hp. http://www.goapr.com/products/?vehicle=A4_B7
My previous help will get you close to 300 on the stock turbo. You decide on the amount you are looking to spend.
My previous help will get you close to 300 on the stock turbo. You decide on the amount you are looking to spend.


